The meat fibre deprived of its juice is still nourishing,
but completely tasteless. Geoffrey pressed it to remove
the last traces of broth, and found that men would not
eat it, and dogs devoured it only under the compulsion of
duction of the sapid meat-extract was an acid,* and promised
to prove this in a subsequent article ; he unfortunately left
hunger.
Proust surmised that the most active principle in the pro-
Probably the acid teimed subsequently mosinic acid by Liebig.
8
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
1 14
his promise unfulfilled. He correctly appreciated meat-
extract as a flavouring, taste-giving and stimulating prin-
ciple, and thus distinguished it from materials for sub-
stantial nutrition. For according to him there is no
material amongst the resources of the kitchen equal to it
in power to flavour certain dishes. This meat-extract and
the savoury principles of cheese* have of all food-stuffs the
highest sapidity.
It is thus proved that the discovery and appreciation of
extract of meat belongs to Proust, that he excluded decoc-
tions of bones and all gelatine from any share in the value of
meat-extract, and applied his standard to the valuation of
articles of trade, such as bouillon tablets or glace.
Common Stock, or Grand (General or Store) Stock.
Some modern books on cookery begin with a description
of common stock, without attempting to define a standard of
strength or quality. This want of a reliable measure, which
can be made up for only partially by the aid of the taste,
leads to a multiplicity of operations and makeshifts, and to
a great loss of material and time. The noted cooks have
only one stock-broth, others have two or three qualities,
the third being the weakest. For all purposes of cookery
but one stock-pot is required, and that holding standard
broth of beef or mutton, each p>int of udiich contains the
soluble {in boiling ivater) part of one poimd of fresh meat. If
this be too rich for any purpose, as for several it undoubtedly
is, it may be diluted with hot water, but it need never be
concentrated. The weak broths, on the contrary, which are
prescribed for so many operations in ordinary cookery-books,
all require hours of boiling before they assume a sufficiently
concentrated state, and do not impart any noteworthy
* Proust’s ‘ Disquisition on Cheese,’ in the course of which he discovered
the remarkable principle ‘ oxyde of cheese,’ later, and at present, termed
leucine, was published in Ann. Ghim. Phys., vol. x., p. 29.
BOUILLON, OK MEAT-BROTH
115
quality to the materials which are boiled in them ; on the
contrary, they frequently extract materials which ought to
be retained in the vegetable or animal substances and tissues
undergoing coction, and by the prolonged boiling which
they require for concentration dissipate the flavours dis-
solved in them.
New Principles for the Preparation and Use of Standard
Broth.
Page 82
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The meat fibre deprived of its juice is still nourishing, but completely tasteless. Geoffrey pressed it to remove the last traces of broth, and found that men would not eat it, and dogs devoured it only under the compulsion of hunger.
Proust surmised that the most active principle in the pro-duction of the sapid meat-extract was an acid,* and promised to prove this in a subsequent article ; he unfortunately left
Proust surmised that the most active principle in the pro-
Probably the acid termed subsequently mosinic acid by Liebig.
1 14
his promise unfulfilled. He correctly appreciated meatextract as a flavouring, taste-giving and stimulating principle, and thus distinguished it from materials for substantial nutrition. For according to him there is no material amongst the resources of the kitchen equal to it in power to flavour certain dishes. This meat-extract and the savoury principles of cheese* have of all food-stuffs the highest sapidity.
It is thus proved that the discovery and appreciation of extract of meat belongs to Proust, that he excluded decoctions of bones and all gelatine from any share in the value of meat-extract, and applied his standard to the valuation of articles of trade, such as bouillon tablets or glace.
Common Stock, or Grand (General or Store) Stock.
Some modern books on cookery begin with a description of common stock, without attempting to define a standard of strength or quality. This want of a reliable measure, which can be made up for only partially by the aid of the taste, leads to a multiplicity of operations and makeshifts, and to a great loss of material and time. The noted cooks have only one stock-broth, others have two or three qualities, the third being the weakest. For all purposes of cookery but one stock-pot is required, and that holding standard broth of beef or mutton, each p>int of udiich contains the soluble {in boiling ivater) part of one poimd of fresh meat. If this be too rich for any purpose, as for several it undoubtedly is, it may be diluted with hot water, but it need never be concentrated. The weak broths, on the contrary, which are prescribed for so many operations in ordinary cookery-books, all require hours of boiling before they assume a sufficiently concentrated state, and do not impart any noteworthy
* Proust’s ‘ Disquisition on Cheese,’ in the course of which he discovered the remarkable principle ‘ oxyde of cheese,’ later, and at present, termed leucine, was published in Ann. Ghim. Phys., vol. x., p. 29.
quality to the materials which are boiled in them ; on the contrary, they frequently extract materials which ought to be retained in the vegetable or animal substances and tissues undergoing coction, and by the prolonged boiling which they require for concentration dissipate the flavours dissolved in them.
New Principles for the Preparation and Use of Standard
Broth.