FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 65

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
A la Soiibise is generally applied to dishes which contain onions in quantity, or at least are strongly garnished and flavoured with them. A la Cricy is similarly connected with carrots, particularly in the form of puree. A number of similarly specific surnames, but applicable only to a limited circle of dishes, occur amongst the details of magiric literature : A VAllemande is a surname given to dishes to which French cooks have applied German provincial peculiarities of preparation. The most frequent application is to a dish with a garnish of sauerhmit as given with pork, or par- tridges, or pheasants ; also prunes steived in luine, to German sioeet sauce for venison, or to quenelles of potatoes {cf. foot- note to p. 80, s^ipra). A la Polonaise is applied to every effort to introduce red beetroot or red cabbage, their juice, colour, and taste, into various dishes, of which Polish ragoM, or Borsch, is the type. A V Irlandaise is applied to dishes which contain potatoes in some form, in mass or as a prevailing garnish. 84 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY A la chipolata is the surname of dishes which contain an addition of the strongly-flavoured Italian sausages, or of the mince with which they are filled. A. la Flamancle is a surname given to dishes containing cabbage, but more particularly Bmssels-si>Toicts. A I’Espagnole is not applied to any typical dish, but to any preparation made savoury with the brown typical sauce bearing that surname. A la Viennoise is applied to dishes as usually and typically prepared in the Austrian capital, such as dumplings termed Nuckerln, quenelles of potatoes, and others. Other names of limited application should be seen in various paragraphs of the dictionary explanatory of culinary terms (Chapter LXI.). Thus, lo la goclivea^i indicates balls made of mince-meat, and a body of such minced meat may be termed a godiveau. The Influence of Temporary or Permanent Abstinence from Certain Kinds of Food upon the Practice of Cookery. The early Christian associations observed the policy of receiving into their rules of external conduct so-called heathenish practices, which meant nothing and did not con- tradict the general dogmas. Amongst such practices they accepted from and through the Jews a portion of the curious observances of abstinence from food for short periods — e.g., the Israelites were ordered by their religious governors to abstain on Midsummer Day from food and drink altogether as long as daylight lasted. This rule was repeated in the privacy of religious brotherhoods, but total abstinence for any period was not imposed upon the general Christian public by the priesthood except for mornings before the Communion ; for ordinary life and the mass of society the observance of modified or partial abstinence was invented. Certain days were to be marked by observances, and these ceremonials took the shapo, not of the impracticable absti- CULINARY PROCESSES 85