of veal and mutton ; the French improve upon them by
covering a shoulder of veal with a layer of farce. At pre-
sent, in the majority of English kitchens, sufficient care is
not bestowed upon the finishing of the outside of the roasts,
which remain membranous, tough, and uneatable; some
dredging, basting, and the passage of the salamander, will
quickly change all this into a frothed, crumbling mass,
penetrated by brown gravy, and heighten the taste of the
meat, thus putting the finishing touch to the best roasting.
The particularly fine savour of roast meat and its gravy
is produced by the browning of concentrated osmazom, the
organic principle of extract of meat, as will be discussed
more fully in subsequent paragraphs.
As regards the process of frying we refer the reader to
Chapter XXI. below, where a general consideration of
the theory is given. The term broiling, or grilling, is ap-
plied to the roasting before the open fire of smaller and
CULINARY PROCESSES
79
thinner pieces of meat, such as chops and steaks. The
description of this method is contained in the general con-
sideration preceding a subsequent chapter, and may be there
perused. The French grill over a horizontal plane made
of ashes covered with live braise, which projects on all sides
3 inches beyond the grill, placed horizontally on four
short legs over the braise ; the English grill on a gridiron
suspended perpendicularly before the fire, or slanting up-
wards parallel with the deflected flame.
An cntre-cote of three hectograms in weight, or a little
more than half a pound, when trimmed, requires ten minutes
for grilling ; trimmed beefsteak of less than half a pound
requires seven minutes before a moderate fire.
A trimmed mutton cutlet {au natural), which weighs
generally 125 grammes, requires six minutes before a lively
fire.
A split kidney requires four minutes of active fire.
A veal cutlet, weighing two-fifths of a pound, requires
nine minutes of moderate firing.
A pork cutlet au natural the same.
A crumbed mutton cutlet requires a mild fire and a minute
more of time. It is more easily done in a pan. The same
holds good of the crumbed veal and pork cutlets, which
require two minutes more time than those which are not
crumbed.
Typical Forms of Dishes, or Sauces and Eagouts, as Means
of Generalization — Definition of French Surnames of
Dishes.
In I ranee there has been developed, in a manner which
should be investigated as part of the history of culture, a
habit of cooks to give names to dishes which at the- time of
ihe inception of the practice had some connection with their
origin, nature, and peculiarity. Gradually the newly-coined
names lost all meaning, and became a means for gratifying
8o
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
Page 62
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
of veal and mutton ; the French improve upon them by covering a shoulder of veal with a layer of farce. At present, in the majority of English kitchens, sufficient care is not bestowed upon the finishing of the outside of the roasts, which remain membranous, tough, and uneatable; some dredging, basting, and the passage of the salamander, will quickly change all this into a frothed, crumbling mass, penetrated by brown gravy, and heighten the taste of the meat, thus putting the finishing touch to the best roasting.
The particularly fine savour of roast meat and its gravy is produced by the browning of concentrated osmazom, the organic principle of extract of meat, as will be discussed more fully in subsequent paragraphs.
As regards the process of frying we refer the reader to Chapter XXI. below, where a general consideration of the theory is given. The term broiling, or grilling, is applied to ththe roasting before the open fire of smaller and thinner pieces of meat, such as chops and steaks. The description of this method is contained in the general consideration preceding a subsequent chapter, and may be there perused. The French grill over a horizontal plane made of ashes covered with live braise, which projects on all sides 3 inches beyond the grill, placed horizontally on four short legs over the braise; the English grill on a gridiron suspended perpendicularly before the fire, or slanting upwards parallel with the deflected flame.
An entre-cote of three hectograms in weight, or a little more than half a pound, when trimmed, requires ten minutes for grilling ; trimmed beefsteak of less than half a pound requires seven minutes before a moderate fire.
A trimmed mutton cutlet {au natural), which weighs generally 125 grammes, requires six minutes before a lively fire.
A split kidney requires four minutes of active fire.
A veal cutlet, weighing two-fifths of a pound, requires nine minutes of moderate firing.
A pork cutlet au natural the same.
A crumbed mutton cutlet requires a mild fire and a minute more of time. It is more easily done in a pan. The same holds good of the crumbed veal and pork cutlets, which require two minutes more time than those which are not crumbed.
Typical Forms of Dishes, or Sauces and Eagouts, as Means
of Generalization — Definition of French Surnames of
Dishes.
In I ranee there has been developed, in a manner which should be investigated as part of the history of culture, a habit of cooks to give names to dishes which at the- time of ihe inception of the practice had some connection with their origin, nature, and peculiarity. Gradually the newly-coined names lost all meaning, and became a means for gratifying
8o