FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 55

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Some Si)ecial Considerations regarding the Boiling of Meat. — The boiling of meat gives rise to various considerations, which have to be treated practically in the preliminary con- sideration of the different materials. Only few are suffi- ciently general to be mentioned in this place. Thus, the question is frequently asked whether meat to be boiled should be put in cold, hot, or boiling water, and has been as variously answered. On the whole evidence it may be con- tended that it does not matter much what temperature the water may possess when it comes in contact with the meat, provided alt other conditions of good coction be observed, such as minimum of water and slow conveyance of heat. All meat will yield a little dissolved albumin to water, less to hot than cold. This albumin, as well as the red colour- ing-matter of fresh red meat, myochrome, will curdle on cooking, and have to be removed as scum. This rising of the scum when the pot is coming to a boil will always occur with the cleanest meat and the clearest water, but both the meat and the water (if the latter be chalky) will contribute materials to its formation ; if distilled water be employed, the materials of the scum are furnished by the meat only. Skimming will, therefore, have to be done whether the meat be put on the fire in cold or in hot water. It is done best at a temperature below boiling, for experienced cooks first skim during boiling, and then stop the boiling for a moment by the addition of a little cold water, and during this period of quiescence the remainder of the scum rises to the surface and is removed by the skimmer. It is preferable to put 68 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY small pieces of meat well tied together in hot water, heat to ebullition, and then let the meat cook to the point at a heat below boiling. Large pieces of meat, on the contrary, should be put on with cold water, to allow the heat gradually to j)enetrate their substance, and then be kept simmering as will be found prescribed in the particular recipes relating to such joints. In this discussion it is assumed that the production of the best meat obtainable is the main object of the process, and that the production of broth be not a consideration to which the quality of the meat has to make any concession. The time during which meat ought to be boiled is generally estimated in the following manner : Do not reckon the time which elapses between the putting of the meat on the fire and its first coming to a boil ; after the first ebullition has taken place allow twenty minutes for every pound of fresh, and rather more to every pound of salt meat, and confine the action of the cooking pot to simmering. Freshly -hilled meat will take much more time to become eatable by boiling than meat which has been kept hung till it is what butchers term ripe. On the treatment of fresh- killed beef, compare what will be found below in the chapter on ‘ Camp Cookery,’ regarding an ox which was killed at 11 a.m., and half eaten by 1 p.m. Meat will have to be boiled a little longer in cold than in weather, although the temperature of the air makes less difference in this process than in that of roasting. Frozen meat must be thawed before it is put on for either boiling or roasting, and in cold weather meat should be put in a warmer room or kitchen a few hours before being put to or over the fire.