tinned are useful for a time, but gradually lose their tin. Enamelled iron ware is useful as long as the enamel is entire ; when this lining is cracked it becomes inconvenient, as difficult to keep clean. Enamelled iron is a bad con- ductor of heat, and in this respect resembles earthenware. Of enamelled iron pans, a frying-pan is least to be recom- mended, as it retards a process which ought to be swift and short. Earthenware is very good for slow boiling or simmering, but it is always liable to crack, and therefore in the long-run more expensive than ironware. Block tin, being sheet-iron plated with tin, is very useful, as vessels made of it are light and conduct the heat well ; but they are liable to rust quickly, particularly at the bottom, and must therefore be renewed at shorter intervals than vessels of other materials. Apparatus for Keeping, Weighing, and Measuring. Amongst the apparatus for keeping articles of food pro- tected from winged insects and rodent vertebrates, cupboards with walls of perforated zinc or canvas are suitable ; also covers made of wire-gauze with handles are very practical. Ice-boxes are useful for some things, but unless they are very large do not admit of the preservation of raw meat therein for want of ventilation. There should be in the kitchen a number of common earthen or stone luare boivls, two of them with lips, for holding broth, stock, gravy, or soup, while setting for the removal of fat. Supply, says ‘ Wyvern,’ liberally all such utensils, as in default may be borrowed from your table crockery or porcelain, or from amongst the spoons, knives, and forks of the dining-room. Of crockery you should therefore supply : A set of jtigs of different sizes, wide-mouthed, so that they can be easily cleaned with the hand and cloth in their cavity ; two clips 6o THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY and saucers for mixing or holding small quantities of liquid ; six and three soicp plates ; two larger and two small dishes ; two small basins, to serve under the wire covers already described. Most of this crockery wmuld be kept mainly in the larder. A cupboard with shelves, to be locked by a key, should be at the command of the cook. The apparatus for lueighing and measuring should com- prise : A spring steel-yard weighing up to 150 lb. A balance or eigliing -machine copahle of weighing parcels, joints, etc., up to 21 lb., turning at less than half an ounce. A balance capable of weighing quantities from 2 lb. down to a drachm, and turning with a grain. A set of weights in iron or brass, avoirdupois, from 211b. downwards. A set of lueights in bi'ass only, for the second fine balance. A set of kilogram weights from 1 kilo down to 1 gram will be a great convenience for comparison, or for the prac- tical execution of French recipes. Of meastires of capacity there should be a wooden bushel and its subdivisions ; a gallon, piMrt, pint, and gill measure of copper, tin, p>eivter, or of glass, verified. There should be a good clock in the kitchen, with a large dial and conspicuous hands, and it should be kept in good order and well regulated.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

tinned are useful for a time, but gradually lose their tin. Enamelled iron ware is useful as long as the enamel is entire ; when this lining is cracked it becomes inconvenient, as difficult to keep clean. Enamelled iron is a bad conductor of heat, and in this respect resembles earthenware. Of enamelled iron pans, a frying-pan is least to be recommended, as it retards a process which ought to be swift and short. Earthenware is very good for slow boiling or simmering, but it is always liable to crack, and therefore in the long-run more expensive than ironware. Block tin, being sheet-iron plated with tin, is very useful, as vessels made of it are light and conduct the heat well ; but they are liable to rust quickly, particularly at the bottom, and must therefore be renewed at shorter intervals than vessels of other materials. Apparatus for Keeping, Weighing, and Measuring. Amongst the apparatus for keeping articles of food protected from winged insects and rodent vertebrates, cupboards with walls of perforated zinc or canvas are suitable ; also covers made of wire-gauze with handles are very practical. Ice-boxes are useful for some things, but unless they are very large do not admit of the preservation of raw meat therein for want of ventilation. There should be in the kitchen a number of common earthen or stone ware bowls, two of them with lips, for holding broth, stock, gravy, or soup, while setting for the removal of fat. Supply, says ‘ Wyvern,’ liberally all such utensils, as in default may be borrowed from your table crockery or porcelain, or from amongst the spoons, knives, and forks of the dining-room. Of crockery you should therefore supply : A set of jtigs of different sizes, wide-mouthed, so that they can be easily cleaned with the hand and cloth in their cavity ; two cups and saucers for mixing or holding small quantities of liquid ; six and three soup plates ; two larger and two small dishes ; two small basins, to serve under the wire covers already described. Most of this crockery would be kept mainly in the larder. A cupboard with shelves, to be locked by a key, should be at the command of the cook. The apparatus for weighing and measuring should comprise : A spring steel-yard weighing up to 150 lb. A balance or weighing-machine copahle of weighing parcels, joints, etc., up to 21 lb., turning at less than half an ounce. A balance capable of weighing quantities from 2 lb. down to a drachm, and turning with a grain. A set of weights in iron or brass, avoirdupois, from 211b. downwards. A set of weights in brass only, for the second fine balance. A set of kilogram weights from 1 kilo down to 1 gram will be a great convenience for comparison, or for the practical execution of French recipes. Of measures of capacity there should be a wooden bushel and its subdivisions ; a gallon, pint, pint, and gill measure of copper, tin, pewter, or of glass, verified. There should be a good clock in the kitchen, with a large dial and conspicuous hands, and it should be kept in good order and well regulated.

The spirit of cookery