FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 44

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
tains 1,024 closely-printed pages, and dispersed over thes3 are a great number of vignettes and drawings of plants, animals, dishes, and apparatus, all printed from woodcuts. The headings of recipes are 2,345 in number, and are given in the German as well as the French language ; but to many of these headings, curiously enough, there is no text at all ; we can only surmise that the texts were omitted to abbre- viate the book, and the headings were retained to preserve the order of the original arrangement. The style is descrip- tive, not ordering or commanding, and by its original grammar and syntax essentially culinary ; it is variegated by a great number of Germanized French words, such as mijotiren, flavibiren, etc., and by many inverse attempts to construct German expressions for fresh things or ideas, such as Fleisch-Essenz-Gruncl for fond, or Sttlz (which in German means a incMe, i.e., a pickling liquid, correctly called a Stdze) for jelly, both savoury and sweet. Such misunderstanding or misapplication of well-established words can only lead to dire confusion, and the practice should be avoided. The recipes are mainly based upon French precedents, but are mostly well understood and practically elaborated. Bone - worship is subdued, but Proust’s extract of meat, even as revived by Liebig, is not mentioned. Throughout the work reigns the same tendency to overgarnishing w^hich we have noticed in Gouffe’s recipes, and the socles, i>edestals, vases, canajKs, and other erections cast in stearin are numerous and mostly depicted. Num- bers of small dishes and cakes are portrayed as served on colossal silver dishes, tazzas, vases, and other indescribable apparatus, such as abound in the platerooms of kings or of London confectioners. Many peculiarities make the book difficult to use ; thus, the author terms many purde soups coulis, both in French and German ; but a coulis is a strong, thick, savoury saiice, and not a soup, and the word, though a good ancient French expression for what it was intended THE HISTORIC LITERATURE OF COOKERY 51 to symbolize, does not occur in Gouffe’s work a single time. The allusions to English cookery, particularly roasts and puddings, are of the nature common in German and French magiric literature, and the results admit of explanation by tbe relative differences in the materials and the fuel. The actual strength of the work consists in the fact that many of its parts are based upon a wide experience ; all articles on what we will call sober cookery for the well-to-do and educated middle class are very imperfect, some of coarse simplicity, and the illustrations are sufficient to take away the breath of ever so rich a man, if he thought that he would be expected to have produced in his establishment even a moderate selection of them. Their service alone would be very laborious, and carry many of the guests who had to suffer its inconvenience over to the party of the adherents of service a la Biosse. CHAPTEE III. KITCHEN REQUISITES AND CULINARY AXIOMS. Furniture and Apparatus req,uired in a well-appointed Kitchen.