The spirit of cookery

Refectioner ; Old English, a restaurateur. Releves, or removes : the top and bottom dishes, as they are designated in England, following the soup and fish on ordinary tables. They usually consist of roasts, joints, turkeys, capons, highly or plainly dressed fillets, or rolls, etc., of beef, calf's head, etc. Some innovators have releves for every course, a useless and confusing extension. Rissoler; to brown by frying or baking in an oven ; metaphoric use of the effect of sunlight upon human skin ; e.g., rissole (visage) par le soleil (sunburnt). Rissoles: mincemeat fritters. Ris de veau (not riz): the sweetbread, pancreas; name not explained. Supposed derived from ris, laughter, is not easily derived. Rob : English and French, from Arab. Robbub (contracted robb), inspissated fruit juice of the consistence of honey; that of grapes. which is inucli used, is termed sapa. Robs were much used iu cookery; they are now called extracts, and a little more concentrated than were the robs. Roti : French, meat cooked on the spit before the fire, roasted, or in the oven, baked. The roasts at festive dinners are the principal part of the so-called second service. The French call gros roti the large joints of roast meat, such as beef, veal, leg of mutton ; le petit roti is a fowl ; game and small quadrupeds are petits pieds. Roux, French, is the result of the frying of flour in butter or grease (lard, dripping). While frying, the mixture is constantly stirred to prevent the flour from forming lumps ; from roux, feminine rousse, red, sandy (i.e. in colour). Roux brun is fried to a darker colour (a caramel of starch) ; roux blanc (actually a contradiction in terms, but used) is hardly coloured or uncoloured; probably the starch is only a little caramelized, but mainly transformed into dextrine. Sauce rousse is brown sauce ; beurre roux is browned butter without flour, also called beurre noir. Roux (substantive) is given as 'brown butter sauce' in 'Smith and Hamilton's Dictionary' ; but this is erroneous, as the roux is not complete by itself, but is an addition to sauces, soups, and ragouts. Some German cooks call the white roux Weissmehl, the brown roux Braunmehl, and the process of producing them das Einbrennen. S Sabayon : Italian name for wine (Madeira or Malvoisie) mulled with yolks, sugar, and cinnamon (D.D., 471). Saindoux; French, hog’s lard for frj-ing. Sally Lunn : English, a tea-cake, after its inventor. Carême has Solilémie a l'Anglaise (loc. cit., ii. 32), and terms it "grosse piece de fond." Salmagundy : a kind of salad of cold chicken, veal, eggs, beetroot, parsley, anchovies, red pickled cabbage, ham, all finely minced, grated tongue, seasoning, herbs, and spices. The ingredients are laid in rows, so as to produce designs, strata, and colour effects ; almost identical with Polish salad. Derivation of name not known ; may be connected with salmis in part. Salmis : a highly finished hash or ragout made with roast game or wild-fowl in a rich gravy or sauce. Salpicon, synonym salipicon : a savoury mixture of equal parts of meat and vegetables — such as truffles, mushrooms, tongue, sweetbread, poultry, or game — that has undergone the process of cooking in a separate state, and of mincing preparatory to being mixed with béchamel, allemande, or espagnole sauce. It may be used for filling boudins or patties. Salsiiis. See Scorzonera.