The spirit of cookery

Panade : bread soaked in water, milk, cream, or broth, and pressed. Such is the definition now obtaining in culinar)- works. An- cientl}’ panade was a kind of soup, made of bread, soaked in water, and pressed, with the addition of butter, salt, milk, or water, and a liaison of eggs with cream. More commonl}- panade is eaten in the South as a salad, with oil and tomatoes, onions, garlic, etc. The Portuguese form is called sourde {cf. D.D., 796), and the SiDanish gaspacho. Simpson [loc. cit., p. 19) calls a puree of chicken panade, and sa}^s that panade of beef, mutton, or veal is made in the same wa^-. Mine, de Joncourt (in ‘Whole.some Cookerj',’ § 431) calls ‘panade’ a puree of rumpsteak and fowl or pheasant; there is no allusion to bread in the recipe, and the dish is no panade at all, but a mere piir^e, and must be termed so. Epanada is South Spanish and Portuguese for panada. Some German cooks call panade a paste made of flour, butter, and water, stirred with egg.s, to be mixed with forcemeat for making quenelles or aii}- other farce (propanade). Paner ; French, to breadcrumb, over egg-3'olk, sauce, butter, or fat previous to fr3'ing. Panure: French = cutlets, scollops, croquettes, or aii3' other entree which is breadcrnmbed. Pastry, French patisserie, and all the tribe of words derived from it, comes, perhaps, fi'om pasco, or fascor, I feed, e.g., on a meadow. Pastus is the feeding, pastio the fbeding-groiind ; and to such a past3', or raised pie, with its various and voluminous contents, is strictlv comparable. (JeafTre.son, loc. cit., vql. ii., p. 45, derives it, in our ojiinion erroneonsh’, from Latin pistum, past participle of pinso, pinscre, to beat together in a mortar, to pound.) In the prosecution of the connection of the tribe of words DICTIONARY OF CULINARY TERMS 68i there are many difficulties, or inversely, suggestions encountered. E.s;., paste from dough is only found as late Latin, while pastilkis, a little ball of flour-paste (or any similar hall of paste) is said to be a diminutive of pains, bread (Festns; cf. also Pliii., 22, 12, 14). • This is the more likely, as, according to Varro, pas- tillns, or pastil linn, signifies a small loaf ot bread, or roll, as we term it. Probably paste as dough was derived later from pastus, the food of man (L,ncretins). Old Vrer\c\i=paste ; New French, pate; Fate Latin, pesta. But as regards our pasties, pates and patties, all these .supposed derivatives are invalid, apjia- reiitly, before the Greek 1} iraari], a mixed di.sh of meat, a ragout, as the French term it, the old artocreas, to which pastaetum, pasty, was considered a barbarous substitution ; aprog (0) being- bread, artocreas means bread-meat, and is therefore a symbol of all pies and pasties, from sausage-rolls to giant pie up- wards. But the co-ordination of waari] with aproKpmg renews the problem, to which the derivations from passo, to .sprinkle, are no satisfaction at all. For artocreas see Persius, 6, 50. “Aprog is xvheaten bread, for barley bread is paX,a, Hebrew mazze ; rraari] is defined as a dish of mixed and cut-up food, meat being neither expressly mentioned nor excluded. But the word is the feminine form of the adjective iraarog or, bestrewed, strewed over, particu- larly with salt, pickled, and its use as a sub.stantive therefore involves an ellipse, and its identit)- with artocreas must be the result of evolution.