FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 430

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Kebobs, or khubabs : Turkish, Indian, dice of mutton run on a skewer, and grilled or cooked in other wa}'s. Ketchup : English, liquid extract of mushrooms. ‘ The liquor obtained from mushrooms approaches the nearest to meat grav}- in flavour and quality of any vegetable juices, and is the best substitute for it in an}- of those savoury dishes intended to please the palate’ (‘Eaton’s Dictionary’). Explicit recipe, see ibid. Kitchener : a cook ; lately also applied to cooking apparatus. Kneffs in German, queneffes or quenelles in French {cf. Knbdel, infra): little savoury soup-dumplings; perhaps from Greek knesnia, that which has been rubbed or scraped off, forcemeat being mostly rubbed as puree through a tammy, and scraped off on the other side ; from Greek knan, to scrape, etc., or knesniee, scraped meat simply. Knbdel : Bavarian German for dumplings ; Knbpflc in Suabian. (La Chapelle, v. 224, spells cnoedels.) Kou^ues : French, rarely used; adopted from German or English cakes. Kouques a I'Anglaise were much favoured. Careme gives sixteen dishes of pastr}- coming under the head- ing of couques, to be used at soirees, thee dansants, where the}' were much patronized. Kromeskys, variation krainouskys, are forcemeat balls wrapped in cowl (net, omentum), and fried in fat, or in braised calf’s udder, cut in thin slices, immersed in butter, and fried in hog’s lard ; or in little jackets of fat bacon, previously cooked, and cut in thin slices; such rolls are dipped in batter and fried. The name may have some connection with the Greek kromyon, onion, particu- larly as krome.skys are said to come to us by way of Russia, hence termed a la Russe. Careme repeatedly writes crcnieskis (‘ M. d’kiot.,’ p. 310 and p. 339). L Langouste: French, spiny lobster, sea crawfi.sh. Langostino : a peculiar prawn from the Atlantic, near Cadiz. Lapereau: French, young rabbit, cony; German Kaninclien. Lapin de Garenne : wild or warren rabbit, as distinct from the lapin de clapier, hutch or tame rabbit. Lapina en accolade: abraceofrabbitsalong.sideofeach other on a dish. Laver; a marine alga, growing on rocks along the .shore in the West of England ; is prepared in pots and sent out for eating. Its immediate prejiaration consists in the addition of butter and Seville orange juice, and in heating over a s]iirit lamp with stirring. It is eaten witli roast meat; seldom liked at first, liy habit becomes highly agreeable (‘ Eaton’s Dictionary ’). 678 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Legumes : French, the grains which come in pods, and are collected {lego, I collect) by hand : peas, lentils, beans, haricot beans, etc. (falsely applied to all kinds of fruit, roots, stalks, leaves, which serve for nourishment, or to green herbaceous vegetables). Liquamen ; Latin for broth or juice (Columella and Palladius). Liquamentum : the same as liquamen (Vegetius). Liquaminatus : provided or mixed with broth (Apicius 8, 7). Liquaminosus : full of broth, juicy (Marcus Empiricus 5, ext.). Liquo, liquare : to make fluid, fuse, melt; to filter; to clarify wine ; to purify {e.g., liquata vox, pure, clean voice) ; to ex- tract. These words are here interpreted with reference to liquamen, which may have been, or have contained, an}' kind of meat-broth, and we doubt very much whether, as .some com- mentators have supposed, it ever meant garum, except in con- nection with preparations of fish. Garum (q.v.), however, was, of course, a liquamen.