FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 418

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The messing of British soldiers has been much improved of late, particularly with regard to the utilization of the fat furnished in his rations. But the Memoi'anda pub- lished by the Army School of Cookery contain on p. 4 the old fallacies about the stockpot and the boiling of bones. t On p. 8 we are informed that any system of good and economical cooking must be based upon the principles * More details coucerning ‘ Advanced Field Cookery ’ may be found in ‘ Wyvern,’ loc. cit., p. 314 ; this is treated more from the point of view of the sporting gentleman than the soldier, and with sole regard to India. Oil preserved soups and Australian meat, etc., cf. ‘ Wyvern,’ /oc. cit., pp. 322 and 32.5. f The rules issued by authority for the Aldershot division say, p. 4 : ‘ Half a hundredweight of bones, in addition to those removed from the ration meat, for 500 men should be sufficient to provide good soup. i.vpj^or/t.vEjvrs of soldiers' mess 663 involved in the culinaiy motto of ‘ Skim, simmer, and sconr.’ This poetical conception faces a recipe for the pro- duction of brav?n at a cost of IM. per pound, which will go far to make practicable the dream of a certain philan- thropist towards providing a dinner for the million at Id. apiece. For here a bullock’s head and a set of cow-heels are made to yield 40 lb. of nutriment, and as the process is indubitable, we can only guess that the remarkable result is obtained by_a massive hydration of gelatine, and that the product thus answers the purpose of mpat and drink at the same time. ' APPENDIX DICTIONARY OF CULINARY TERMS. A Abaisse: French, thin nndercrnst ofpastr_v. Ache: Old Ivngli.sh name for celerj-; retained in name for celery-root. Accrued ; mostl}' applied to pork, meaning <rro;7/-yd’rf— abljreviated, corned ; transferred to sal t boiled beef, as corned or corn beef. Aillolis ; a preparation of olive-oil or fat flavoured with garlic. Aitch-bone: part of the pelvic bone of the ox; \\dien with flesh, a joint for cooking. The right mode of spelling this word is so difficult to find that Dr. Kitchiner avoided the decision by writing H-boue. In Mrs. Mason’s ‘ Ladies’ Assistant ’ it was caWeA haunch-bone ; in ‘Domestic Management,’ and many other book.s, aitch-bone ; inRe5mold’s ‘ Cooker)-,’ ische-bone ; in Hender- son’s ‘Cooker)',’ edge-bone; in Mns. Lydia Fi.sher’s ‘Prudent Housewife,’ ach-bone; in Mrs. IMcIver’s ‘ Cooker)-,’ hook-bone. Kitchiner had also seen it spelled each-bone and ridge-bone, and heard it called natch-bone. We are inclined to believe Rey- nold’s ische-bone might be correct, as being the .Anglicized form of ischiadic bone, the hip-bone, more correctly ischion, the hip. Allemande: white veloute .sauce, bound with yolk, and mixed with cream, flavoured with nutmeg and lemon-juice. Aloyau: French, loin of beef The undercut is termed filet dn dedans. The back is called morcean des clercs. The French con- noisseurs declared the latter of better taste tlian the fillet, and consequently preferred it, though it were less tender. Andouille : chitterling, tripe, q.v. Andouillette ; forcemeat or farce (dictionary — doubtful). Angelica: the .sugar-preserved and dried, tender tubular green and aromatic stalks and leaf-stalks of a plant of that name. Angelica archangelica, L., or officinalis : an aromatic product of northern climates. Angevine : French, ijrobably better anchevine (a I'anchcvine. i.c.. dressed with anchovies).