There should be on the table, says the archimagirus, an
entree of butcher’s meat, one of fowl, one of fish, one of
game, and one of pastry. The table covered with entrees
should be a small representative image of the varied pro-
ductions of nature and art. Out of four entrees two were
formerly, as the ‘ Almanach ’ has it, ‘ dedicated to truilles ’ ;
one so treated was considered indispensable — ‘ dans tout
diner un peu soign4.’
By entrees are always meant mgoiits ; to give them variety,
one half of them should be prepared with white, the other
half with brown sauce ; one half should be garnished with
vegetables, the other half should be provided only with
gravy or sauce {jus ou couUs).
The same production should not be offered twice, though
in different form, at dinner ; if you had chickens in the first
course, do not offer them in the second ; for an elegant
service requires variety, and that afforded by mere variation
of preparation is not great enough. If you have had soles
azo gratin, do not also offer them frites. If you had jugged
hare, do not offer roast hare afterwards. But dressings or
garnishes you may repeat on different materials. The
service of entrees during the dinner should not be hurried,
but each guest should have opportunity to eat of any dish,
or of several preparations, as he pleases.
Some fastidious culinary critics have raised the question
wh?ther the entries should precede the relevis or follow
them ; this is apart from the discussion of the absolute
distinction between a releve and an entree. The question
is shortly answered in this way, that as relev^s, in English
removes or joints, are frequently roasted, it is preferable to
place them before the entr6es, so as not to let them be
succeeded (in case they or one of them be roasted) by the
SECOND SERVICE, ROASTS, ENTREMETS 643
roast or roasts. It is therefore judged to be both ‘ intelli-
gible and artistic’ that the releve and the rot should be
separated from each other by two light entrees.
Under the category of the roasts, the first division of the
second service, are ordinarily comprehended, besides the
I'eal roasts, certain cold dishes, which might be ranged in
a particular order, and large dishes to be placed at the ends
of the table. Thus, it happens that salad passes often as a
rot ; the same with pcMs de foie gras, and some fish fried
or fish boiled blue ; crayfish, the langouste or langostino, a
large prawn, and prawns themselves, may be placed with
the roasts or entremets. However, this always remains
side-play ; the essential part of the service are the pieces or
joints of meat roasted on the spit or otherwise before the fire,
or in the oven. In France the large joints of butcher’s meat
are preferred as releves, while in England they are preferred
as roasts — e.g., roast beef, leg of mutton, loin of veal; on
French tables the roasts consist of fowl or roebuck, red-
legged partridge, and ever so many small birds, from becasses
to larks, hares, etc. To this is joined a selection of fish
cooked in court bouillon, or fried of a golden colour; there
are added terrines of Nirac, pdUs of Pdrigueiix, Chartres,
Amiens, or Strashurg.
Page 405
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
There should be on the table, says the archimagirus, an entree of butcher’s meat, one of fowl, one of fish, one of game, and one of pastry. The table covered with entrees should be a small representative image of the varied productions of nature and art. Out of four entrees two were formerly, as the ‘ Almanach ’ has it, ‘ dedicated to truilles ’ ; one so treated was considered indispensable — ‘ dans tout diner un peu soign4.’
By entrees are always meant mignons ; to give them variety, one half of them should be prepared with white, the other half with brown sauce ; one half should be garnished with vegetables, the other half should be provided only with gravy or sauce {jus ou couUs).
The same production should not be offered twice, though in different form, at dinner ; if you had chickens in the first course, do not offer them in the second ; for an elegant service requires variety, and that afforded by mere variation of preparation is not great enough. If you have had soles azo gratin, do not also offer them frites. If you had jugged hare, do not offer roast hare afterwards. But dressings or garnishes you may repeat on different materials. The service of entrees during the dinner should not be hurried, but each guest should have opportunity to eat of any dish, or of several preparations, as he pleases.
Some fastidious culinary critics have raised the question whether the entries should precede the relevis or follow them ; this is apart from the discussion of the absolute distinction between a releve and an entree. The question is shortly answered in this way, that as relev^s, in English removes or joints, are frequently roasted, it is preferable to place them before the entr6es, so as not to let them be succeeded (in case they or one of them be roasted) by the
SECOND SERVICE, ROASTS, ENTREMETS 643
roast or roasts. It is therefore judged to be both ' intelligible and artistic' that the releve and the rôt should be separated from each other by two light entrees.
Under the category of the roasts, the first division of the second service, are ordinarily comprehended, besides the I'eal roasts, certain cold dishes, which might be ranged in a particular order, and large dishes to be placed at the ends of the table. Thus, it happens that salad passes often as a rôt ; the same with pcMs de foie gras, and some fish fried or fish boiled blue ; crayfish, the langouste or langostino, a large prawn, and prawns themselves, may be placed with the roasts or entremets. However, this always remains side-play ; the essential part of the service are the pieces or joints of meat roasted on the spit or otherwise before the fire, or in the oven. In France the large joints of butcher’s meat are preferred as releves, while in England they are preferred as roasts — e.g., roast beef, leg of mutton, loin of veal; on French tables the roasts consist of fowl or roebuck, redlegged partridge, and ever so many small birds, from becasses to larks, hares, etc. To this is joined a selection of fish cooked in court bouillon, or fried of a golden colour; there are added terrines of Nirac, pdUs of Pdrigueiix, Chartres, Amiens, or Strashurg.