FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 396

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
as was alleged, in honour of Pallas ; for this number was brought into a mystic connection with wisdom as well as virginity. Plato was in favour of the number twenty-eight, in honour of some astronomical considerations connected with that number which have received various explanations. The Emperor Octavianus Augustus, dui'ing whose reign women began to take a more conspicuous place, and apparently a more active share, in the life of Eoman society, generally had twenty-four persons at his table, half of whom were women. The Emperor Varus desired always to have twelve diners at his table, in honour of the planet Jupiter, which was supposed to perform its course in twelve years (actually eleven years and nearly 315 days). In France no particular number of diners was fancied more than another, but the number thirteen was objected to, as it is by superstitious people in the present day. In Italy, however, during the period of the Eenaissance, the number of thirteen was not even noticed, much less objected to. In ‘ Athenseus ’ we can read of the kinds of fish and vegetables most fancied at Eome ; of imported vegetables were most esteemed the radishes of Mantinea, the turnips of Thebes, and the beetroot of Asia. The Eomans knew all good fish, and took care to serve their tables well with them ; those fishes which had nice colours, and were of lively aspect, were exhibited living on the table just before being killed and cooked. They had sturgeon brought as far as from the Caspian. Over fish even the Senate is reported to have lost its self-possession, as when, what is almost in- credible, and perhaps an invention of a satirist, it advised the Emperor Domitian to have a certain turbot prepared with a particular sauce. A frequently used dish was herrings from the iEolian, now Liparian, Isles. Of desh food the Eomans had nearly the same kinds as we have now, and probably in very large quantity. It is F<LESH FOOD OF ANTIQUITY AND MIDDLE AGES 629 said that they knew turkeys tinder the name of meleacjrides {i.e., aves), on which see supra; these probably came from Asia and were rarities, certainly not used for food as commonly as nowadays, but mainly kept as ornamental birds, like the peacocks and hens in farms, courts, and parks. Our present turkey came to us from America, although it bears many names, including kirkey and calicitl, which point to an intermediate starting - point. The pheasant, which the Argonauts had brought to Greece, was imported into Italy, together with the cherry and the peach, by Lucullus. The Greeks and Eomans ate dogs,* and con- sidered them, when young, plump and carefully prepared, delicate and wholesome food, as the Chinese do in the present day. Dinners were made the means of luxurious exhibitions first amongst the Eomans. The augur Hortensius, on his appointment, gave a dinner at which, for the first time, a roasted peacock, with its principal feathers restored to it, was served on the table. At ceremonial dinners pies with a hundred small birds became fashionable ; later on dishes made of fillets of such birds, which were more convenient to eat; this gave rise to the fables about the pates composed of the tongues of nightingales and other singing birds.