Artificially aerated waters from common, perhaps infected, wells, or conducted supplies, are very unsafe, as the aeration kills none of the infectious germs, but rather favours the life of some of them. Wine and its varieties concern us in this work only in so far as they are used in the actual culinary preparation of dishes, or in as far as they serve the oesthetical purpose of beverages to be used in the course of meals, and particularly feasts. The wines of Xerez, or sherries, are white, and generally would ho the best of all were they not afflicted with two adulterations — plaster of Paris and spirit. Owing to con- 6i4 THE STIR IT OF COOKERY tinued protests, the spirit in sherry has been somewhat diminished, and \ve hope that all addition of spirit and all plastering may ultimately cease entirely. Then sherry will be of all white wines /acffe princeps. Sherry should be drunk cooled to 52° Fahr., but not below, and should not be iced. It does not easily bear dilution with water, as this not rarely brings to notice undesirable peculiarities of the wine, which are hidden by either spirit or boiled must. Pale sherry is the most desirable, as it is necessarily the purest. Browm sherry, such as was in vogue at the beginning of the century, is now rarely drunk. Many South Spanish wines are called sherry, without having any claim to that name by either the place of origin or the vine of which they are the produce. Anothei' sub- stitution is that of Sicilian marsala, or wine from other Mediterranean or Atlantic isles, mixed wuth a little sherry, and termed Amontillado. The consumer should distinguish the good from the bad wines by comparison. The preparations of sherry most coiamonly used are numerous : Sherry Cobbler, a mixture of sherry, water, ice, and sugar, flavoured with lemon; Sherry Punch, much used in Scandinavia; Mulled Sherry with Eggs — the expression mulled practically means heated and spiced, but it is supposed to be derived from the Latin mollio, I soften, make milder : it therefore also includes the sweetening of acid and the diluting of alcoholized wine ; Posset, hot milk curdled with wine, derived from the Welsh posel, curdled milk — Irish pusoid (this should perhaps be classified with jtinkets and sillabubs ; but the term has also been applied to preparations made with wine and groats, and wuthout milk) ; the same may be said of the Sack Posset — the rhymed recipe by one Sir Fleetwood Shepherd prescribes ‘ Sack from Spain ’ ; the dish is really a sweet custard llavoured with sherry, and cannot properly be called a lynVES AND PREPARATIONS 613 beverage ; Vinous Whey, made by adding wine to milk, and boiling and filtering from the curds— cifZe?- is very suitable for its production. Amongst the most favoured preparations of ]3ort wine is Mulled Port; Bishop or Oxford Nightcap; Cardinal and variations. The red wines of Bordeaux, commonly called claret, should for drinking be warmed to 65° Fahr., or thirteen degrees higher than white wines. Of preparations there are : Claret Clip and variations ; Mulled Claret ; Sauterne Cup. The red and while wines of Burgundy are suitable for analogous preparations.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Artificially aerated waters from common, perhaps infected, wells, or conducted supplies, are very unsafe, as the aeration kills none of the infectious germs, but rather favours the life of some of them. Wine and its varieties concern us in this work only in so far as they are used in the actual culinary preparation of dishes, or in as far as they serve the esthetical purpose of beverages to be used in the course of meals, and particularly feasts. The wines of Xerez, or sherries, are white, and generally would be the best of all were they not afflicted with two adulterations — plaster of Paris and spirit. Owing to con- tinued protests, the spirit in sherry has been somewhat diminished, and we hope that all addition of spirit and all plastering may ultimately cease entirely. Then sherry will be of all white wines facile princeps. Sherry should be drunk cooled to 52° Fahr., but not below, and should not be iced. It does not easily bear dilution with water, as this not rarely brings to notice undesirable peculiarities of the wine, which are hidden by either spirit or boiled must. Pale sherry is the most desirable, as it is necessarily the purest. Brown sherry, such as was in vogue at the beginning of the century, is now rarely drunk. Many South Spanish wines are called sherry, without having any claim to that name by either the place of origin or the vine of which they are the produce. Anothei' substitution is that of Sicilian marsala, or wine from other Mediterranean or Atlantic isles, mixed wuth a little sherry, and termed Amontillado. The consumer should distinguish the good from the bad wines by comparison. The preparations of sherry most commonly used are numerous : Sherry Cobbler, a mixture of sherry, water, ice, and sugar, flavoured with lemon; Sherry Punch, much used in Scandinavia; Mulled Sherry with Eggs — the expression mulled practically means heated and spiced, but it is supposed to be derived from the Latin mollio, I soften, make milder : it therefore also includes the sweetening of acid and the diluting of alcoholized wine ; Posset, hot milk curdled with wine, derived from the Welsh posel, curdled milk — Irish pusoid (this should perhaps be classified with jtinkets and sillabubs ; but the term has also been applied to preparations made with wine and groats, and wuthout milk) ; the same may be said of the Sack Posset — the rhymed recipe by one Sir Fleetwood Shepherd prescribes ‘ Sack from Spain ’ ; the dish is really a sweet custard flavoured with sherry, and cannot properly be called a WINES AND PREPARATIONS beverage ; Vinous Whey, made by adding wine to milk, and boiling and filtering from the curds— cifZe?- is very suitable for its production. Amongst the most favoured preparations of ]3ort wine is Mulled Port; Bishop or Oxford Nightcap; Cardinal and variations. The red wines of Bordeaux, commonly called claret, should for drinking be warmed to 65° Fahr., or thirteen degrees higher than white wines. Of preparations there are : Claret Clip and variations ; Mulled Claret ; Sauterne Cup. The red and while wines of Burgundy are suitable for analogous preparations.

The spirit of cookery