We learn from ‘ Wyvern ’ that savoury toast is thorough!)-
useful and generally popular, at least, amongst East Indian
exiles, but that it is rarely presented there. It can fre-
quently be made at a pinch when the larder is all but
empty, and a friend drops in unexpectedly. A dainty feeder
will sometimes fancy it when he will scarcely look at any-
thing in the way of food. If well made it serves as a finish
to a little home dinner ; and it is equally acceptable at
breakfast, luncheon, or supper. It is susceptible of elaborate
as well as of simple treatment, and may be fashioned to
obey the dictates of sumptuousness, as well as those of the
strictest economy. A savoury toast should be served hot ;
it should not be kept in the oven, but set before the diner
the moment it is completed. Toast should be made before
a clear fire, which radiates strongly from a body of glowing
coals or embers, or a broad sheet of flame ; it can also be
made on a hot-plate — i.e., the iron top of a hearth — but
then requires more management. When the plate is not
too hot, the bread may be placed directly in contact with it;
if the plate be very hot, to red hot, the bread must be raised
away from it, by a wire net, to the distance of an eighth of
an inch or more. It must be quickly made, so that the
moisture of the outside is driven into the interior, and
rO.-^STS, RdTIES, AXD CROUTONS
609
makes that soft and fresh-tasting, while the dry outside
becomes immediately and equally but lightly browned.
‘ Wyvern’ maintains that, except in special cases, the slice of
bread destined to receive any savoury composition should
be delicately fried in butter till it be of a golden colour.
We for our part cannot consent to call such a preparation
toast ; it is fried bread, French croMon, Italian crustino ;
nor can we consent to attribute to a croirton the same
gustatory quality and digestibility as to a piece of toast.
However, while holding them distinct, we may treat them
side by side, inasmuch as they may be garnished with the
same savoury preparations. The true French expression
for toast is rdtie, an ellipse from tranche de imiii rotie, a
feminine noun, and thus broadly distinguished from the
male rdti, a roast piece of meat. Some have given the
following definition of roties : ‘ Tranches de pain qu’on fait
rotir et sur lesquelles on sert differentes substances maigres
ou grasses.’ This we adopt, and do not allow croutons to
be ranged under it.
Amongst our selected recipes, the Indian ones from
‘Wyvern,’ we find anchovy imrde to be served on either toast
or crouton, and several variations : 'Bdties of S^nnach, both
savoury and sxoeet ; of Cucumber or Gourd ; of green French
Beans ; of leaves and stalks of Beetroot ; of Indian country
greens, especially leaves of the mollay-keeray ; Bamle-Cai
(Bhindi) Toast ; Brinjals {Binegum) and Moringa Toast ;
Toast of the Flower of the Coco-nut Palm ; Bdties of Veal
Kidney ; of Sweetbread ; of Capon ; of Siveetbread and Ham;
of Woodcock ; of Fat Livers of Geese ; of Ham ; of Mcorroio
tvith Sugar ; of Marroio xoithout Sugar ; en Canapd ; of Eggs ;
ivith Bacon ; a variety with local names, such as d la Pro-
vengale, a la Hollandaise, etc.; of Fish an maigrc ; of but-
tered Eggs ; oj hard-boiled Eggs ; of Eggs ivith Cream ; of
Purde or Mince of Kidney ; of cold roast Game ; of Sardine,
Herring, and various other Fish and their roes.
3<J
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THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
Page 384
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
We learn from ' Wyvern ' that savoury toast is thoroughly useful and generally popular, at least, amongst East Indian exiles, but that it is rarely presented there. It can frequently be made at a pinch when the larder is all but empty, and a friend drops in unexpectedly. A dainty feeder will sometimes fancy it when he will scarcely look at anything in the way of food. If well made it serves as a finish to a little home dinner ; and it is equally acceptable at breakfast, luncheon, or supper. It is susceptible of elaborate as well as of simple treatment, and may be fashioned to obey the dictates of sumptuousness, as well as those of the strictest economy. A savoury toast should be served hot ; it should not be kept in the oven, but set before the diner the moment it is completed. Toast should be made before a clear fire, which radiates strongly from a body of glowing coals or embers, or a broad sheet of flame ; it can also be made on a hot-plate—i.e., the iron top of a hearth—but then requires more management. When the plate is not too hot, the bread may be placed directly in contact with it; if the plate be very hot, to red hot, the bread must be raised away from it, by a wire net, to the distance of an eighth of an inch or more. It must be quickly made, so that the moisture of the outside is driven into the interior, and
[illustration: Toasts, Rôties, and Croutons]
makes that soft and fresh-tasting, while the dry outside becomes immediately and equally but lightly browned.
‘' Wyvern' maintains that, except in special cases, the slice of bread destined to receive any savoury composition should be delicately fried in butter till it be of a golden colour. We for our part cannot consent to call such a preparation toast ; it is fried bread, French crouton, Italian crostino ; nor can we consent to attribute to a crouton the same gustatory quality and digestibility as to a piece of toast.However, while holding them distinct, we may treat them side by side, inasmuch as they may be garnished with the same savoury preparations. The true French expression for toast is rôtie, an ellipse from tranche de pain rôtie, a feminine noun, and thus broadly distinguished from the male rôti, a roast piece of meat.Some have given the following definition of rôties : ' Tranches de pain qu'on fait rôtir et sur lesquelles on sert différentes substances maigres ou grasses.'’ This we adopt, and do not allow croutons to be ranged under it.
Amongst our selected recipes, the Indian ones from 'Wyvern,' we find anchovy purée to be served on either toast or crouton, and several variations : 'Rôties of Spinach, both savoury and sweet ; of Cucumber or Gourd ; of green French Beans ; of leaves and stalks of Beetroot ; of Indian country greens, especially leaves of the mollay-keeray ; Bhindi (Bhindi) Toast ; Brinjals (Brinjal) and Moringa Toast ; Toast of the Flower of the Coco-nut Palm ; Rôties of Veal Kidney ; of Sweetbread ; of Capon ; of Sweetbread and Ham; of Woodcock ; of Fat Livers of Geese ; of Ham ; of Marrow with Sugar ; of Marrow without Sugar ; en Canapé ; of Eggs ; with Bacon ; a variety with local names, such as à la Provençale, à la Hollandaise, etc.; of Fish au maigre ; of buttered Eggs ; of hard-boiled Eggs ; of Eggs with Cream ; of Purée or Mince of Kidney ; of cold roast Game ; of Sardine, Herring, and various other Fish and their roes.
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