The omelette is a mildly savoury preparation, and does not well amalgamate with sweet principles, except when, as in the case of the Omelette axix Confitures, the fruity sweetness acts by massive gustatory contrast. From this point of view, a mere sweet omelette is a preparation not worthy of attention, although there are formulae for such, and even variations — e.g., Omelette ato Kirsch. Care should be taken that the confitures to be used with the omelette should be such — i.e., fine fruit jellies — and not jams or stewed fruit. At a private dinner in a large West End hotel, we saw a preparation announced as ‘ Omelette aux Confitures,’ which looked like a roll of boiled wash-leather, and contained stewed rhubarb (leaf stalks). The host sum- moned the head-waiter, and informed him that if the cook was not ashamed to send such a dish as this, he, the waiter, ought at least to have been ashamed to serve it. Omelettes with coarse jams simulating confitures, and savoury omelettes 596 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY with all the whites of eggs in them, are symptoms of the decadence of culinary art. The combinations of omelette are many, and may be seen in ordinary recipe collections ; a great number of ragovits can be served on a basis of omelette. Omelette with Panna Cheese is an agreeable homogeneous dish. The addition of oysters to omelettes is unnecessary, and not specific; that of kidneys is esteemed incongruous. Of Omelette with Tumiy (French omelette au thon), Savarin says that this dish should be reserved for fine dejeuners and meetings of amateurs, who know what they are doing. He adds a few notes th^oriques, which are three very commonplace rules, the last one being that the dish bearing the omelette should be warmed. Omelettes with fruit — as distinguished from confitures — e.cj., straioherries or apples, contain flour in their composi- tion, and have, according to our definition, to be ranged tvith fritters. Several other preparations which are termed omelettes in collections of recipes are either souffles or puddings, or peculiar preparations not easily classified. Scrambled eggs, synonym stirred eggs, French oeufs hrouilUs, are a kind of spoiled omelette. Of additions to omelettes we mention forcemeat, which makes them very savoury, but must be cooked independently, and crayfish tails. Some pirepiarations of hard-boiled eggs should be remem- bered. Thus, Hard-boiled Eggs in Onion Sauce (a la Sauce Bobcrt) may come in usefully ; the French term the dish CEnfs a la Tripe, which is quite unexplained. Gratinated Eggs form a solid and savoury dish, which may be made with fresh or boiled eggs. Skcffed, filled, or farcied eggs are an artistic dish of good appearance. The hard whites neatly divided serve as cups, in which the farce incorporated with the yolks is lodged. The dish may be served either hot or cold — e.g., at suppers. Baked Yolks MILK, CREAM AND CHEESE 597 semi-gratinatccl in Sauce ivitk Parma Cheese receive a dis- tinguished colour from the Aurora sauce, a coloured bechamel, or from grated yolk made ruddy by the salamander.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The omelette is a mildly savoury preparation, and does not well amalgamate with sweet principles, except when, as in the case of the Omelette aux Confitures, the fruity sweetness acts by massive gustatory contrast. From this point of view, a mere sweet omelette is a preparation not worthy of attention, although there are formulae for such, and even variations — e.g., Omelette au Kirsch. Care should be taken that the confitures to be used with the omelette should be such — i.e., fine fruit jellies — and not jams or stewed fruit. At a private dinner in a large West End hotel, we saw a preparation announced as ‘ Omelette aux Confitures,’ which looked like a roll of boiled wash-leather, and contained stewed rhubarb (leaf stalks). The host summoned the head-waiter, and informed him that if the cook was not ashamed to send such a dish as this, he, the waiter, ought at least to have been ashamed to serve it. Omelettes with coarse jams simulating confitures, and savoury omelettes with all the whites of eggs in them, are symptoms of the decadence of culinary art. The combinations of omelette are many, and may be seen in ordinary recipe collections ; a great number of ragoûts can be served on a basis of omelette. Omelette with Parma Cheese is an agreeable homogeneous dish. The addition of oysters to omelettes is unnecessary, and not specific; that of kidneys is esteemed incongruous. Of Omelette with Tuna (French omelette au thon), Savarin says that this dish should be reserved for fine dejeuners and meetings of amateurs, who know what they are doing. He adds a few notes théoriques, which are three very commonplace rules, the last one being that the dish bearing the omelette should be warmed. Omelettes with fruit — as distinguished from confitures — e.cj., strawberries or apples, contain flour in their composition, and have, according to our definition, to be ranged with fritters. Several other preparations which are termed omelettes in collections of recipes are either souffles or puddings, or peculiar preparations not easily classified. Scrambled eggs, synonym stirred eggs, French oeufs brouillés, are a kind of spoiled omelette. Of additions to omelettes we mention forcemeat, which makes them very savoury, but must be cooked independently, and crayfish tails. Some preparations of hard-boiled eggs should be remembered. Thus, Hard-boiled Eggs in Onion Sauce (a la Sauce Bobcrt) may come in usefully ; the French term the dish Oeufs à la Tripe, which is quite unexplained. Gratinated Eggs form a solid and savoury dish, which may be made with fresh or boiled eggs. Stuffed, filled, or farcied eggs are an artistic dish of good appearance. The hard whites neatly divided serve as cups, in which the farce incorporated with the yolks is lodged. The dish may be served either hot or cold — e.g., at suppers. Baked Yolks MILK, CREAM AND CHEESE semi-gratinaced in Sauce ivitk Parma Cheese receive a distinguished colour from the Aurora sauce, a coloured bechamel, or from grated yolk made ruddy by the salamander.

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