such as the jelly part about the jowl, the palate and the tongue, for the sake of which they get it baked or boiled, fried and stewed. Kitchiner terms such preparations ‘ pretty playthings or poor finery,’ and truly says that they will not do for those who want a good meal. Buy the tail only if you intend to fry it, but never for boiling ; and never leave it attached to the thick part of the fish, for as it is much thinner than the latter, when it is boiled with it, it will be overdone before the other is cooked ; it should therefore always be dressed separately, cut in fillets or slices, and be fried ; when boiled it is mostly soft and watery. The middle of the cod, muff {or French manchon), is best for boiling, while when cut in slices, cutlets or darns, it will do equally well for broiling. Never buy salt or dried cod if you can buy fresh ; if you desire to eat salt cod, pickle it yourself during a few days, and save the trouble of restoring qualities to the preserved fish by which alone it can become eatable again. Cod by itself has little flavour and less fat, and therefore requires savoury, spicy, and fatty additions. It is almost the only animal food of millions of human beings — e.g., the black slaves and labourers of America. It is sold in a great variety of qualities, and these should be well studied by consumers and their cooks. In the beginning of the last century cod was little esteemed by the upper classes, so that Simpson has no recipe at all for its preparation in any shape. . The cod cured on the Dogger Bank is remarkably fine, and seldom more than three weeks in the cured state before going to market ; the barrel cod is commonly cured on the coast of Scotland and Yorkshire. There is a great deal of inferior cured salt fish brought from Newfoundland and Iceland. The Dutch name for fresh cod is kabeljau, in French //ISTOKV AND PREPARATIONS OP CODFISH 543 rendered cahillaiid, or cabiau. When it is salted the French term it moruc (from the systematic Latin name Gadus morrhua). Salt cod in Holland and Germany is called laherdcm, salt and dried cod is termed kliiypfisli. Cod merely dried without having been salted is termed stockfish. The Portuguese term the latter bakeljau; if this be not a mere corruption by displacement of consonants, there may be a linguistic connection between stock, a stick, and baled, as a derivate from the Latin bctcuhcs, a stick. The codfish is stated by Anderson* to have the power of ejecting anything indigestible he may have swallowed by turning his stomach inside out through his mouth, and, after having emptied and well washed it with sea water, to retract it into his belly, and be ready for another meal. This fable is probably the result of the observation that the cod’s stomach is mostly found quite empty and clean, the result of his enormous digesting power. This has no doubt a great influence upon the flesh of the animal, and helps to keep it so healthy and clean as it is mostly found.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

such as the jelly part about the jowl, the palate and the tongue, for the sake of which they get it baked or boiled, fried and stewed. Kitchiner terms such preparations ‘ pretty playthings or poor finery,’ and truly says that they will not do for those who want a good meal. Buy the tail only if you intend to fry it, but never for boiling ; and never leave it attached to the thick part of the fish, for as it is much thinner than the latter, when it is boiled with it, it will be overdone before the other is cooked ; it should therefore always be dressed separately, cut in fillets or slices, and be fried ; when boiled it is mostly soft and watery. The middle of the cod, muff (or French manchon), is best for boiling, while when cut in slices, cutlets or darns, it will do equally well for broiling. Never buy salt or dried cod if you can buy fresh ; if you desire to eat salt cod, pickle it yourself during a few days, and save the trouble of restoring qualities to the preserved fish by which alone it can become eatable again. Cod by itself has little flavour and less fat, and therefore requires savoury, spicy, and fatty additions. It is almost the only animal food of millions of human beings — e.g., the black slaves and labourers of America. It is sold in a great variety of qualities, and these should be well studied by consumers and their cooks. In the beginning of the last century cod was little esteemed by the upper classes, so that Simpson has no recipe at all for its preparation in any shape. . The cod cured on the Dogger Bank is remarkably fine, and seldom more than three weeks in the cured state before going to market ; the barrel cod is commonly cured on the coast of Scotland and Yorkshire. There is a great deal of inferior cured salt fish brought from Newfoundland and Iceland. The Dutch name for fresh cod is kabeljau, in French [illustration: HISTORY AND PREPARATIONS OF CODFISH 543] rendered cahillaud, or cabiau. When it is salted the French term it moruc (from the systematic Latin name Gadus morrhua). Salt cod in Holland and Germany is called laberdan, salt and dried cod is termed klippfish. Cod merely dried without having been salted is termed stockfish. The Portuguese term the latter bakeljau; if this be not a mere corruption by displacement of consonants, there may be a linguistic connection between stock, a stick, and baled, as a derivate from the Latin betachus, a stick. The codfish is stated by Anderson* to have the power of ejecting anything indigestible he may have swallowed by turning his stomach inside out through his mouth, and, after having emptied and well washed it with sea water, to retract it into his belly, and be ready for another meal. This fable is probably the result of the observation that the cod’s stomach is mostly found quite empty and clean, the result of his enormous digesting power. This has no doubt a great influence upon the flesh of the animal, and helps to keep it so healthy and clean as it is mostly found.

The spirit of cookery