ochre and colour have been transferred to our English essence of anchovies in the shape of Armenian bolus. The Proveu9al fishermen do not change the brine which is formed in the barrels, but, when its level has sunk by evapora- tion, fill it up. The fishermen of other parts, however, use colourless pure baysalt, and change the brine three times ; thus their anchovies do perhaps keep longer, but have less flavour than the more perishable anchovies of Proveu9e. In seaports anchovies, after having been freed from salt by steeping and dipped in a suitable batter, are eaten either fried or roasted. Salted anchovies are best when new, firm, white outside, vermilion-coloured inside, and free from all traces of putrid smell. They are dressed as fillets by taking out the back-bone, and particularly the group of small bones and spines forming the back-fin. In this state they are used for a great number of culinary pre- parations, as a flavouring ingredient or zest of the highest value, and as hors d’amvre. As most valuable preparations of anchovy we recall Anchovy Butter and Anchovy Sauce ; Roties and Canapds of anchovies, combinations with force- meat, or with eggs, lettuce, etc., as salad. When prepara- tions of anchovy are made too dilute by insufficiency of material they lose the appetising quality, become flat, or taste of train-oil ; this deterioration affects essence of an- chovies and sauces by long standing and exposure to air. The tunny, Scomber thynnus, L. (from the Greek thynnos, from ihyno, I dart or rush along ; Dutch thonym, French thon, German Thun), is a large-sized member of the mackerel family, taken mainly on the Mediterranean coasts, at Mar- seilles, Corsica, round Sicily, and along the African shore. The aliment afforded by its muscle is so peculiar that it is said to be neither flesh nor fish. The fishermen call it Chartists’ veal, because some parts have the taste and pale colour of veal, but being fish could be eaten by Carthusians. It is eaten fresh and salted, and the celebrated physician 540 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Galen is said to have been the first to teach the manner in ■which it could be preserved and made fit for transport. Nearly all the tunny eaten in France and Switzerland comes from Provence, where it is caught in nets in the rivers. For being tinned it is cut in pieces, fried on the grill, then in oil; it is then peppered and salted, placed in little barrels, and infused with vinegar and oil (Galen’s method). At the present time it is more commonly preserved in tins by Apperts’ method, without any preparation or addition. Current forms of preparation are obtained by roasting, hraising, and frying. It is not rarely added in scollops to salads.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

ochre and colour have been transferred to our English essence of anchovies in the shape of Armenian bolus. The Provençal fishermen do not change the brine which is formed in the barrels, but, when its level has sunk by evaporation, fill it up. The fishermen of other parts, however, use colourless pure baysalt, and change the brine three times ; thus their anchovies do perhaps keep longer, but have less flavour than the more perishable anchovies of Provence. In seaports anchovies, after having been freed from salt by steeping and dipped in a suitable batter, are eaten either fried or roasted. Salted anchovies are best when new, firm, white outside, vermilion-coloured inside, and free from all traces of putrid smell. They are dressed as fillets by taking out the back-bone, and particularly the group of small bones and spines forming the back-fin. In this state they are used for a great number of culinary preparations, as a flavouring ingredient or zest of the highest value, and as hors d’amvre. As most valuable preparations of anchovy we recall Anchovy Butter and Anchovy Sauce ; Roties and Canapds of anchovies, combinations with forcemeat, or with eggs, lettuce, etc., as salad. When preparations of anchovy are made too dilute by insufficiency of material they lose the appetising quality, become flat, or taste of train-oil ; this deterioration affects essence of anchovies and sauces by long standing and exposure to air. The tunny, Scomber thynnus, L. (from the Greek thynnos, from ihyno, I dart or rush along ; Dutch thonym, French thon, German Thun), is a large-sized member of the mackerel family, taken mainly on the Mediterranean coasts, at Marseilles, Corsica, round Sicily, and along the African shore. The aliment afforded by its muscle is so peculiar that it is said to be neither flesh nor fish. The fishermen call it Chartists’ veal, because some parts have the taste and pale colour of veal, but being fish could be eaten by Carthusians. It is eaten fresh and salted, and the celebrated physician Galen is said to have been the first to teach the manner in ■which it could be preserved and made fit for transport. Nearly all the tunny eaten in France and Switzerland comes from Provence, where it is caught in nets in the rivers. For being tinned it is cut in pieces, fried on the grill, then in oil; it is then peppered and salted, placed in little barrels, and infused with vinegar and oil (Galen’s method). At the present time it is more commonly preserved in tins by Apperts’ method, without any preparation or addition. Current forms of preparation are obtained by roasting, braising, and frying. It is not rarely added in scollops to salads.

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