Frying is applicable to small fish in its entirety, or to
slices and fillets of fish ; the piece to be fried should always
be egged and crumbed. Mullet should be scored up on
each side. Whitings and small jack are to be bent in a
circle, and fixed in that position by skewers. Many
varieties of fish are more conveniently fried after having
been filleted ; that is to say, after their flesh has been cut
off the bones and divided in pretty equal pieces, dredged
with flour, or egged and crumbed, or dipped in batter. Fry
in hot oil or butter, and drain the friture of fat by placing
it on absorbent or bibulous paper, sprinkle it with salt, and
dish it upon a napkin or absorbent paper punched to a
pattern or design.
Stewing is less frequently applicable to fish than the
previously considered modes of cooking. Eels and lampreys
are stewed cut in slices ; other fish require to be filleted
before being stewed ; the larger varieties must be cut in
small slices (scollops or kebobs). Fry them in fat with a
little onion, and herbs and spices ; then add standard gravy,
and stew for fifteen minutes or more, if the slices be large ;
add some wine ; thicken the sauce with yolk, or roux, and
point with any essence or ketchup at hand to increase the
savoury character of the sauce. Some writers make a dis-
tinction between a stew and a fricassee of fish, which is
based mainly upon tbe omission, in the case of stewing, of
the preliminary frying. We think the distinction unim-
portant and unnecessary, and, moreover, hold that the term
fricassee, originally applied to a preparation of chicken only,
should not be extended to fish.
The collaring of fish signifies a process which consists in
isolating in one piece the whole of the flesh of one side (or
of both sides) of a fish, divesting it of head, tail, fins, and
‘J'HIl SPIRU OF COOKERY
5iS
bones, rubbing it on both sides with spices, finely-shred
herbs, and salt ; rolling it up as tightly as possible, tying it
securely with broad tape, putting a collaring cloth around
it, placing it in a saucepan in which there is a boiling liquor
composed of equal parts of water or standard broth and
vinegar, spiced with bay-leaves, sweet herbs✪ Collaring of Fish, and salt.
Simmer all very slowly until the fish be done, then take the
latter out and let it cool in the cloth, in case you do not
want it for immediate service ; reduce the liquor by boiling,
strain it, and when it is cold pour it over the fish, or
instead of this you may give a separately made piquant
sauce with it.
From many of the recipes concerning the preparation of
fish given in culinary treatises, the addition of the element of
savoitr derived from meat has been omitted, except in sauces
and mireiMix. This deficiency, easily discovered by an ex-
perienced taste, the authors of the treatises have attempted
to make up for by a forcible and profuse addition of wane
and spirit, a counterpart to the absurdity of the bouillon of
the faisan Lucullus. Thus, in a modern culinary treatise,
W'e find the following recipe for Coitrt Bordllon, which is
translated ‘ Sauce Court Bouillon ’ : ‘ Fill a fishpan nearly
to the brim with white wine, a wineglassful of brandy, the
same quantity of sherry, and “ season ” with salt, pepper,
two “heads” of cloves, “a head” of garlic, sliced onions,
carrots, turnips, parsnips, celery, chervil, parsley, a bayleaf,
thyme, and “a lump” of fresh butter✪ Court Bouillon.
Page 326 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Frying is applicable to small fish in its entirety, or to slices and fillets of fish ; the piece to be fried should always be egged and crumbed. Mullet should be scored up on each side. Whitings and small jack are to be bent in a circle, and fixed in that position by skewers. Many varieties of fish are more conveniently fried after having been filleted ; that is to say, after their flesh has been cut off the bones and divided in pretty equal pieces, dredged with flour, or egged and crumbed, or dipped in batter. Fry in hot oil or butter, and drain the friture of fat by placing it on absorbent or bibulous paper, sprinkle it with salt, and dish it upon a napkin or absorbent paper punched to a pattern or design.
Stewing is less frequently applicable to fish than the previously considered modes of cooking. Eels and lampreys are stewed cut in slices ; other fish require to be filleted before being stewed ; the larger varieties must be cut in small slices (scollops or kebobs). Fry them in fat with a little onion, and herbs and spices ; then add standard gravy, and stew for fifteen minutes or more, if the slices be large ; add some wine ; thicken the sauce with yolk, or roux, and point with any essence or ketchup at hand to increase the savoury character of the sauce. Some writers make a distinction between a stew and a fricassee of fish, which is based mainly upon the omission, in the case of stewing, of the preliminary frying. We think the distinction unimportant and unnecessary, and, moreover, hold that the term fricassee, originally applied to a preparation of chicken only, should not be extended to fish.
The collaring of fish signifies a process which consists in isolating in one piece the whole of the flesh of one side (or of both sides) of a fish, divesting it of head, tail, fins, and
‘J'HIl SPIRU OF COOKERY
5iS
bones, rubbing it on both sides with spices, finely-shred herbs, and salt ; rolling it up as tightly as possible, tying it securely with broad tape, putting a collaring cloth around it, placing it in a saucepan in which there is a boiling liquor composed of equal parts of water or standard broth and vinegar, spiced with bay-leaves, sweet herbs, and salt. Simmer all very slowly until the fish be done, then take the latter out and let it cool in the cloth, in case you do not want it for immediate service ; reduce the liquor by boiling, strain it, and when it is cold pour it over the fish, or instead of this you may give a separately made piquant sauce with it.
From many of the recipes concerning the preparation of fish given in culinary treatises, the addition of the element of savoitr derived from meat has been omitted, except in sauces and mireiMix. This deficiency, easily discovered by an experienced taste, the authors of the treatises have attempted to make up for by a forcible and profuse addition of wane and spirit, a counterpart to the absurdity of the bouillon of the faisan Lucullus. Thus, in a modern culinary treatise, W'e find the following recipe for Coitrt Bordllon, which is translated ‘ Sauce Court Bouillon ’ : ‘ Fill a fishpan nearly to the brim with white wine, a wineglassful of brandy, the same quantity of sherry, and “ season ” with salt, pepper, two “heads” of cloves, “a head” of garlic, sliced onions, carrots, turnips, parsnips, celery, chervil, parsley, a bayleaf, thyme, and “a lump” of fresh butter.
Records on this page
Collaring of FishCourt Bouillon