affectionately devoted to his master, so that no bribe could induce him to compass his master’s death or injury. Eomoli, in his work on the office of the scalco, says that while he himself held such an office he was in constant terror. The cook, he observes, should always keep his eyes open, and ever bear in mind the dangerous position in which he is placed. He was not to allow idlers in the kitchen, nor permit anyone except those in whom he had entire con- fidence to touch the dishes for fear of treachery. Other servants in a great establishment of the sixteenth century were the coijpiere, or cup-bearer, who handed the wine ; the spenditore, who had the control of the expenses ; and the dispensiero, who had charge of the dispensa, where the pro- visions were kept, and who had to account to the scalco for the bread, wine, and other articles of food given out for daily consumption, as well as for the corn of the horses. The manner in which cookery and dining were treated in Italy towards the end of the sixteenth century is well set forth by Montaigne (1533-92) in his ‘ Journal of a Voyage in Italy,’ which he made in 1580 (edit. Paris, 1774). He now and then invited to his table an Italian who had been viaitre d’hdtel to a Cardinal Caraffe down to the death of this latter. ‘ I made him describe the functions of his office. He dehvered to me a discourse of this science of the gullet with a gravity and magisterial countenance, as if he were speaking to me of a great question in theology. He deciphered to me a difference of appetites — the appetite which one has before having broken fast, and that which one has after the second and third service ; the means of rousing and stimulating it ; the management of his sauces, first in general, and then particularizing the qualities of the ingredients and their effects; the differences of salads according to their season ; the salad which must be warmed, and that which must be served cold ; the mode of orna- menting and embellishing them to make them still more THE HISTORIC LITERATURE OF COOKERY 31 pleasant to the sight. After this he entered upon the order of the service, full of important and beautiful considerations ; and all this set out in rich and magnihcent words, such, indeed, as one employs in treating of the government of an empire.’* Spanish, French, and German Authors. In Spain were published two editions of the work of Eoberto Nola,t who was cook to King Kerdinand of Naples, and signed his name as E. de Nola. France in the sixteenth century produced two remarkable works, that of Pierre Pidoux,i and that of the celebrated Taillevant,§ the father of French sauces. Germany possessed cookery-books H which had originated in the fourteenth century, and several anonymous works, which generally bore the title ‘ Kiichenmeisterey.’ The sixteenth century is distinguished by works, one from the pen of an otherwise unknown physician, Walther Eyfi',11 another from that of Marx Eumpolt,** cook to the Elector of * Manuel des Amphitryons (Preface, p. 6). f Nola, Roberto de, ‘Libro de cozina compuesto por R. de Nola, cozinero del rey 1). Fernando de Napoles Toledo, 1525, 4to. It was printed with Gothic letters. This is a translation from the Catalan into the Cas- tilian dialect. It was republished at Logrono, in 1529, under the title : ‘ Libro de guisados, manjares, y potajes intitulade Libro de Cozina.’

AI-modernized reading of the original text

affectionately devoted to his master, so that no bribe could induce him to compass his master’s death or injury. Eomoli, in his work on the office of the scalco, says that while he himself held such an office he was in constant terror. The cook, he observes, should always keep his eyes open, and ever bear in mind the dangerous position in which he is placed. He was not to allow idlers in the kitchen, nor permit anyone except those in whom he had entire confidence to touch the dishes for fear of treachery. Other servants in a great establishment of the sixteenth century were the coijpiere, or cup-bearer, who handed the wine ; the spenditore, who had the control of the expenses ; and the dispensiero, who had charge of the dispensa, where the provisions were kept, and who had to account to the scalco for the bread, wine, and other articles of food given out for daily consumption, as well as for the corn of the horses. The manner in which cookery and dining were treated in Italy towards the end of the sixteenth century is well set forth by Montaigne (1533-92) in his ‘ Journal of a Voyage in Italy,’ which he made in 1580 (edit. Paris, 1774). He now and then invited to his table an Italian who had been maître d'hôtel to a Cardinal Caraffe down to the death of this latter. ‘ I made him describe the functions of his office. He delivered to me a discourse of this science of the gullet with a gravity and magisterial countenance, as if he were speaking to me of a great question in theology. He deciphered to me a difference of appetites — the appetite which one has before having broken fast, and that which one has after the second and third service ; the means of rousing and stimulating it ; the management of his sauces, first in general, and then particularizing the qualities of the ingredients and their effects; the differences of salads according to their season ; the salad which must be warmed, and that which must be served cold ; the mode of ornamenting and embellishing them to make them still more pleasant to the sight. After this he entered upon the order of the service, full of important and beautiful considerations ; and all this set out in rich and magnificent words, such, indeed, as one employs in treating of the government of an empire.’* Spanish, French, and German Authors. In Spain were published two editions of the work of Roberto Nola,t who was cook to King Ferdinand of Naples, and signed his name as E. de Nola. France in the sixteenth century produced two remarkable works, that of Pierre Pidoux,i and that of the celebrated Taillevant,§ the father of French sauces. Germany possessed cookery-books H which had originated in the fourteenth century, and several anonymous works, which generally bore the title ‘ Kiichenmeisterey.’ The sixteenth century is distinguished by works, one from the pen of an otherwise unknown physician, Walther Ryff,11 another from that of Marx Rumpolt,** cook to the Elector of * Manuel des Amphitryons (Preface, p. 6). f Nola, Roberto de, ‘Libro de cozina compuesto por R. de Nola, cozinero del rey 1). Fernando de Napoles Toledo, 1525, 4to. It was printed with Gothic letters. This is a translation from the Catalan into the Castilian dialect. It was republished at Logrono, in 1529, under the title : ‘ Libro de guisados, manjares, y potajes intitulade Libro de Cozina.’

The spirit of cookery