The pig is, like the rabbit, one of the most prolific animals.
The French Marshal Vauban wrote a treatise on pigs,
humorously entitled ‘ Ma Cochonnerie,’ in which he calcu-
lated the possible posterity of a sow to be, after twelve
years, more than 6,000,000 of porkers.
The various parts of the pig are more frequently used in
the kitchen than those of other animals, as is proved by the
perusal of any cookery-book, and as can be seen in many
kitchens where cookery is carried on by mere tradition,
without any written or printed record.
Bacon and ham are most frequently used, the other parts
of pork are less sought after ; however, hoar’s limcl is a dis-
tinguished dish when prepared by a cook who understands
that its value consists in its appreciation as an atavistic
tradition. The feet are dressed after the fashion of Ste.
M6ndhould, or stuffed with truffles ; the ears are served cn
meim de roi ; and tlie breast is used in many ragoiUs. No
part need be thrown away. Of its blood black pudding
is made ; of its intestines are made chitterlings (Fr.
andonilles, Lat. edulia, Germ. Kaldanncn), of the fragments
PREPARATIONS OF PORK
471
of its meat sausages, and of its almost denuded bones grilled
and boiled petit sales (Germ. Solper-Knochen) are made.
Even pigs’ tails have been honoured with being the objects
of ambitious ragouts and feeble recipes, and have shared,
with ears, the braises, garnishes, and other favours of
culinary grotesqueness.
As Boar's Head is a traditional dish, and as in common
life real wild boar’s head is of rare occurrence, the domestic
bacon hog must yield the materials which are to he trans-
formed into the simile of his ancestors of courageous
memory. It is to be boned, stuffed, braised, covered with
aspic jelly✪ Boar's Head, and eaten cold.
Boast Neck and Loin of Pork are treated with some sage
and onion, and well done, and to be accompanied with
apple sauce. The Griskin of Pork✪ Griskin of Pork is also mostly roasted,
sometimes in the larded state. Griskm is in practice
defined as that part of the pig which is cut from the
side of the hacon hog, namely, the lean from the neck
and loin ; it may weigh from 7 to 8 lb., and take from an
hour and a half to two hours roasting. A so-called Bacon
Sparerih, or Bald Sparerib, is so called because almost all
the meat is pared off ; when yet covered to some extent it
may weigh up to 9 lb., but when very bald care must be
taken not to let it get burnt before it is warmed through.
Chops or Cutlets of pork may be plain, grilled, or fried, or
glaced and crumbed and fried, boiled ‘ with the gravy in
them,’ and served with sauce Bobert, or curried and dished
h I'Indienne. The Leg of Pork is also frequently roasted.
When it is skinned and roasted, it is called mock goose.
A synonym might be goosified pork, an expression formed
after the precedent of Priscilla Haslehurst’s ‘ Housekeeper’s
Instructor,’ which gives a recipe ‘ to goosify a shoulder of
lamb.’ Leg of pork is much improved by pickling and boil-
ing. Some cooks, when the pork is about to be served,
score the skin in diamonds, and take out every other
472
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
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Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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The pig is, like the rabbit, one of the most prolific animals.
The French Marshal Vauban wrote a treatise on pigs,
humorously entitled ‘ Ma Cochonnerie,’ in which he calcu-
lated the possible posterity of a sow to be, after twelve
years, more than 6,000,000 of porkers.
The various parts of the pig are more frequently used in
the kitchen than those of other animals, as is proved by the
perusal of any cookery-book, and as can be seen in many
kitchens where cookery is carried on by mere tradition,
without any written or printed record.
Bacon and ham are most frequently used, the other parts
of pork are less sought after ; however, hoar’s limcl is a dis-
tinguished dish when prepared by a cook who understands
that its value consists in its appreciation as an atavistic
tradition. The feet are dressed after the fashion of Ste.
M6ndhould, or stuffed with truffles ; the ears are served cn
meim de roi ; and tlie breast is used in many ragoiUs. No
part need be thrown away. Of its blood black pudding
is made ; of its intestines are made chitterlings (Fr.
andonilles, Lat. edulia, Germ. Kaldanncn), of the fragments
PREPARATIONS OF PORK
471
of its meat sausages, and of its almost denuded bones grilled
and boiled petit sales (Germ. Solper-Knochen) are made.
Even pigs’ tails have been honoured with being the objects
of ambitious ragouts and feeble recipes, and have shared,
with ears, the braises, garnishes, and other favours of
culinary grotesqueness.
As Boar's Head is a traditional dish, and as in common
life real wild boar’s head is of rare occurrence, the domestic
bacon hog must yield the materials which are to he trans-
formed into the simile of his ancestors of courageous
memory. It is to be boned, stuffed, braised, covered with
aspic jelly, and eaten cold.
Boast Neck and Loin of Pork are treated with some sage
and onion, and well done, and to be accompanied with
apple sauce. The Griskin of Pork is also mostly roasted,
sometimes in the larded state. Griskm is in practice
defined as that part of the pig which is cut from the
side of the hacon hog, namely, the lean from the neck
and loin ; it may weigh from 7 to 8 lb., and take from an
hour and a half to two hours roasting. A so-called Bacon
Sparerih, or Bald Sparerib, is so called because almost all
the meat is pared off ; when yet covered to some extent it
may weigh up to 9 lb., but when very bald care must be
taken not to let it get burnt before it is warmed through.
Chops or Cutlets of pork may be plain, grilled, or fried, or
glaced and crumbed and fried, boiled ‘ with the gravy in
them,’ and served with sauce Bobert, or curried and dished
h I'Indienne. The Leg of Pork is also frequently roasted.
When it is skinned and roasted, it is called mock goose.
A synonym might be goosified pork, an expression formed
after the precedent of Priscilla Haslehurst’s ‘ Housekeeper’s
Instructor,’ which gives a recipe ‘ to goosify a shoulder of
lamb.’ Leg of pork is much improved by pickling and boil-
ing. Some cooks, when the pork is about to be served,
score the skin in diamonds, and take out every other
472
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY