The spirit of cookery

‘ As many kitchens,’ he exclaims, ‘ as many different methods 1’ lie adds that such divergences were frequent as to other dishes, and proceeds to attempt to remedy those concerning these cutlets by a new recipe, which might be headed : Mutton cutlets grilled, with d’Uxelles mince and d’Uxelles sauce. After having used it for his description of his form of cutlets à la Maintenon, the same author declares that the name of d’Uxelles was ambitious, and at the same time little intelligible ; he therefore proposes to substitute for it a rational definition of the preparation, namely, ‘ fine herbs for garnishes and sauces,’ meaning mushrooms, parsley, shallots, pepper and salt, all fried in butter. All this confusion of names is a modern product, and arises from the disregard of modern writers for the well-established names of typical dishes, and their want of acquaintance with the historical magiric literature of their country. Cutlets, whether of veal, pork, or mutton, grilled au naturel, or egged and crumbed, over a charcoal fire, were formerly called carhonades ; but during the last thirty years the word has been much supplanted by cutlet, or cdtelette, and is heard rarely except in ancient establishments and places removed from the crushing influence of the levelling Juggenath. Quite a new application of the word carbonade was made by some authors, who under this term gave recipes for the preparation of boned loins by genuine braising. This involves a twofold mistake : firstly, a piece of meat to be grilled must be in the shape of relatively thin slices, and therefore a joint in its integrity cannot be called grilled or carbonated ; secondly, as these joints are directed to be braised, they are not carbonados, and the title of braised carbonades is at least an iteration or tautology. Gouffé seems to restrict the name carbonade to braised fillets of mutton, or boned chine, of which he specializes five variations, differing by vegetable garnishes only. Mutton Chops are cut either from the so-called neck, i.e., the anterior part of the back, or, and this more frequently, from the posterior part of the back and the loin. Flatten them with the bat, and broil them over or before a clear fire ; spice them after they are done, and place them on a MUTTON CHOPS, KEBOBS, AND COLLOPS 465 hot dish. Make it a rule never to put gravy either to beefsteaks or mutton chops ; it removes the outer coating of condensed gravy, which is the most savoury part, and even though it remain in any added gravy, is so diluted by it as to lose its most pleasing effect. When a fire sufficiently clear for grilling is not at hand, chops have to be fried in butter in a pan. Care should be taken that the butter be quite hot, so as to make the meat close the pores on its surface and take colour quickly. Mutton chops should be sent to table as hot as possible, be covered over, and not allowed to stand or wait ; they should be eaten with a small quantity of concentrated brown gravy or a savoury made sauce. Mutton chops produce an excellent ragout when dressed as a so-called haricot. This word haricot in connection with mutton is surmised by some to be a contraction of ‘ Plant ragout if so, it need not be derived from the white haricot beans, which certainly in the present time form no part of the dish.