These varieties of cushions, or noix, have to be dis- tinguished in cookery, because they are used for different purposes if choice be free. The cushion, or nut, generally makes an entree ; the under-cushion, sour-noix, is used for making godiveaus and cooked farces ; the noix du patissier, or under-cut, goes to make godiveaus, and its ends velotiU, or sauce toemide. The chump end and the remaining parts of the flesh may help to make an espagnole. The expres- sion ‘ fillet part of the neck,’ which occurs in some writers, could only mean the mass of flesh on the back above the 29 45° THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY shoulder-blades, on both sides of the spinous processes of the vertebral column, cut away from the boue. Loin of Veal, in French longe, is that part of the calf to which the kidney adheres. It is cut three inches shorter than the haimch ; the side, or ventral flap, is rolled inwards, and fastened with skewers, in order that the loin may be square, and not have the appearance of being thicker at one end than at the other. The same object is served by taking out the spinous processes of the lumbar vertebrae, which are near the kidney. The lungs, popularly lights, because they float on water, are in French called mou. The calf’s pluck in French is fraise cle veau. Tendrons, so frequently mentioned in French cookery-books as delicacies, are the soft cartilages of the rihsnQdj: the breast-bone. In some French and English cookery-books of the present century they are persistently called tendons, an error which, with inexperienced persons, is liable to lead to relatively grave misunderstandings, tendons being sineios, or the thin flexible ropes by which muscles bend and straighten limbs at distances from their position. It is uncertain whether the last syllable of godiveau is derived from, or has reference to, the flesh of the calf. No more can we state the derivation of popiettes or px^upi- ettes — Italian polpettes — de veau, expressions which, like several others used, though more rarely, in culinary practice, are not registered in dictionaries. The p>rep>arations of Calf’s Head are numerous and in- teresting. It is most frequently boiled, even when further prepared afterwards. Plain-boiled Calf’s Head looks better on the dish if it be white, and not covered with large or small patches of pigment from a natural piebald condition of the skin. For calf’s head which is to be served in espagnole or any other brown sauce, the colour of the skin of the head is indilTerent. The head may he partially boned PREPARATIONS OF CALF'S HEAD 451 before being boiled, or be boiled entire and subsequently boned.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

These varieties of cushions, or noix, have to be distinguished in cookery, because they are used for different purposes if choice be free. The cushion, or nut, generally makes an entree ; tthe under-cushion, sous-noix, is used for making godiveaus and cooked farces; the noix du pâtissier, or under-cut, goes to make godiveaus, and its ends velouté, or sauce tomade. The chump end and the remaining parts of the flesh may help to make an espagnole. The expression ‘ fillet part of the neck,’ which occurs in some writers, could only mean the mass of flesh on the back above the 45° shoulder-blades, on both sides of the spinous processes of the vertebral column, cut away from the boue. Loin of Veal, in French longe, is that part of the calf to which the kidney adheres. It is cut three inches shorter than the haunch;; the side, or ventral flap, is rolled inwards, and fastened with skewers, in order that the loin may be square, and not have the appearance of being thicker at one end than at the other. The same object is served by taking out the spinous processes of the lumbar vertebrae, which are near the kidney. The lungs, popularly lights, because they float on water, are in French called mou. The calf’s pluck in French is fraise cle veau. Tendrons, so frequently mentioned in French cookery-books as delicacies, are the soft cartilages of the ribs and the breast-bone. In some French and English cookery-books of the present century they are persistently called tendons, an error which, with inexperienced persons, is liable to lead to relatively grave misunderstandings, tendons being sineios, or the thin flexible ropes by which muscles bend and straighten limbs at distances from their position. It is uncertain whether the last syllable of godiveau is derived from, or has reference to, the flesh of the calf. No more can we state the derivation of popiettes or paupiettes — Italian polpettes — de veau, expressions which, like several others used, though more rarely, in culinary practice, are not registered in dictionaries. The p>rep>arations of Calf’s Head are numerous and interesting. It is most frequently boiled, even when further prepared afterwards. Plain-boiled Calf’s Head looks better on the dish if it be white, and not covered with large or small patches of pigment from a natural piebald condition of the skin. For calf’s head which is to be served in espagnole or any other brown sauce, the colour of the skin of the head is indilTerent. The head may be partially boned PREPARATIONS OF CALF'S HEAD before being boiled, or be boiled entire and subsequently boned.

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