FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 273

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
1 lb. of meat becomes 4 oz. of dry material, which can be powdered, but not very finely. Eouelle and D’Arcis re- ported of Villaris’s product that the bouillon and bouilli were equal to that fronf fresh meat. But further experience showed that meat thus dried in air at a temperature not exceeding 100° Fahr., or in the open air as yarkee, does not keep unaltered for any great length of time ; all yarkee we have ever tasted is rancid or tainted ; all beef -powder, even the best, we found to become tainted in smell and taste after a few weeks’ most careful preservation in a tin in a dry place removed from all contamination. The use of dry beef-powder is, therefore, impracticable, apart from other objections. The principles of roasting as applicable to beef have been so fully developed in the general chapter, that we must not attempt to apply them in detail even to the Boast Sirloin of Beef. Allow the rays of the fire to strike the beef during a quarter of an hour for every pound of weight which it shows ; thus, a sirloin of 15 lb. requires roasting during fifteen quarters of an hour, or three hours and three- quarters of an hour, and in winter four hours. If the same weight of joint be boned and rolled, it becomes more compact and thicker, though losing in weight at least one quarter, or perhaps 4 lb. ; yet this lighter mass of meat will require 28 434 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY a somewhat longer time to get done than the unboned joint, because the necessary rolling and tying together, to keep the meat juicy, prevents the heat from penetrating quickly to the interior, and heat has therefore to be applied for a longer time ; if this he omitted, the interior of the roll may be found underdone, or even raw. If a family or symbiotic company be small, even a sirloin of light weight, roasted at once, becomes gastronomieally inconvenient. In such a case divide the joint as follows : Cut out the underciit or fillet, and dress it as a larded and braised entree ; or, after marinading it previously, dress it as what some older writers called mock hare ; the marinading gives you time for postponing its use. Cut off the abdominal flap with the outer parts of the ribs, and stew it for pressed beef, or boil it with roots and rhizomes ; or salt it slightly, and then stew and boil it ; from the main loin remove all excess of fat, which on the under side is suet, and use it for pudding, or fuse it out for other uses, such as frying. Now chop off the bodies of the vertebrae against which the fillet has been lying, and roast this tidy joint before the fire, protecting the ribs, exposed by the removal of the fillet, with suet and oiled paper. In this way a sirloin will give materials for three different hot dinners, plenty of variety, and enable the company to consume every part in an agree- able form.