The spirit of cookery

In England, be it in town or country, beef is mostly to be had of excellent quality. Much of what is now sold in populous centres comes from foreign countries, or the colonies, even the antipodes, in a frozen or otherwise preserved state. But the best so-called prime beef is of Scotch origin, and fattened on the pastures of the Midland counties. The prime pieces of beef used for eating are the following: The loin, mostly termed sirloin, which is generally eaten roast, without being boned for that purpose ; but for braising it is generally boned. A (half or one side) loin weighs from fifteen to twenty pounds. The muler-nut, or fillet, mostly goes with the loin, and is roasted with it. In Kitchiner’s ‘ Oracle,’ this part is called the inside of the sirloin, and was at his time little esteemed. He directed that it should never be cut while hot, but reserved entire for the hash, or a mock hare. The fillet was, however, also cut for steak. The ribs, called in the North the crop, are next in quality, although some people prefer ribs to loin. A joint with the first three ribs (of one side) may weigh also from fifteen to twenty pounds ; the fourth and fifth ribs approach the first three in weight. Ribs are more frequently boned and rolled, and then can be roasted before a smaller fire or in an oven, but require more time to get done. The rump, or round, is divisible into two parts — the upper, which furnishes the best steaks, and is also used for roasting ; and the lower, or silver-side, which, like the undivided round, is mostly used for boiling, stewing, or braising. The aitch-bone, also spelled H-bone, edge-bone (being the ischiadic bone), is a portion of the pelvic bone with the meat attached ; this is also used for boiling and stewing, the former in a salted state. The brisket is the part between the shoulders and forelegs with the breast-bone. It contains the remarkable and tasty body of firm fat called kernel ; it is mostly used for boiling or stewing. The shoulder is the least esteemed part of the side, and most frequently stewed and boiled, and used for the production of gravy. The head of the ox is always divided in halves. The brain is not eatable. The rest is called ox-cheek, and braised or stewed. The tongue is one of the most delicate parts, and sold separately from the cheek. The tail of the ox is now a very expensive piece, its meat being paid for at a higher rate than rumpsteak. In the beginning of the century the tail was worth from sixpence to sevenpence only. Of the internal organs of the ox, called inside, the several stomachs and intestinal canal are boiled, and consumed under the name of tripe. The liver of the ox is not eatable for man, but given to dogs. The flesh of the thinner parts of the legs, shins, is mostly too hard and tendinous for roasting and boiling, and is used for the production of fresh beef-tea, broth, or gravy— hence called gravy beef. The feet of oxen, which, like those of cows, go under the description of cozu’s heels, are boiled and eaten by frequenters of tripe-shops. French cooks make an accomplished dish of them. Ox-heart is a favourite dish of some, but is rather of a pronounced taste, and very solid.