and cooked. In that case the water must be kept boiling, and must be periodically resupplied in a boiling state as it evaporates. The water must not rise to above half the height of the mould containing the pudding, in order that no portion of it may get inside the mould. If the mould can be hermetically closed, it may be boiled submerged in water. All covers of moulds should be fastened down or weighted, so that the steam may not blow them off. From this it follows that a Papin’s digester is the most suitable vessel to boil a pudding in. A closed mould for puddings has this further advautage, that its contents may be left in it until the moment of serving, as they will not become overdone or deteriorated in a short time. The larger-sized varieties of puddings are mostly boiled in a napkin, or pudding-cloth, selected for the purpose. Such a napkin or cloth must, just before use, be soaked for an hour in boiling water, and then wrung out. Butter is then spread over it, and this in its turn is dusted over with flour. This keeps the water away from the pudding, and helps in the separation of the cloth from the pudding after the coction is completed. When the ends of the cloth are gathered over the raw pudding and about to be tied, care is to be taken to leave a little, but no excess of space between the pudding and the gathering folds of the cloth, or its binding ; the pudding must be kept solid all round, but have room to expand a little. Some cooks suspend puddings in cloths by a string passing over a pulley, so as to allow a part of the top to be out of water, while the pudding is being kept together by gravity as well as the cloth ; but for this proceeding special apparatus is requisite. Some cooks prefer boiling their puddings in pans of earthen- ware, because, being slower conductors of heat than metal pots, they boil steadier, and evaporate less water than metal boilers. If tbe pudding be too closely tied it may burst the cloth, and be partially or entirely lost. But with reason- 424 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY able precaution the preparation and boiling of puddings is one of the most certain processes of culinary practice. We shortly define some puddings without giving the details of their recipes. Sir Watkin Wynn Pudding : A suet, bread, and sugar mass, with eggs, juice and zest of lemons✪ Sir Watkin Wynn Pudding; a classical dish. Somersetshire Pudding: Egg, flour, sugar, and butter✪ Somersetshire Pudding in equal parts, flavoured. The stiri’ed mass is poured into small conical tins which are only half filled ; during baking they rise to double the volume of the dough or batter. They are eaten with wine sauce, and when cold admit of being dressed with liqueur, or wine and custard, or as trifle. They ai’e related to the biscuit puddings, resembling Savoy cake. Phimi Pudding is the national English representative of this class of dishes. It is generally boiled, but may be baked in a buttered casserole. A French author says that plum pudding was a farinaceous dish, without which there was no good meal in England ; essen- tial and constitutive were flour, eggs, and butter, the taste of which was enhanced by different ingredients : cherries, sago, citron, caul✪ Plum Puddingiflower, etc. Plums, required by the title, are not mentioned. Puddings of vermicelli, semolina, tax>ioca, and luheat-grits are analogous to souffles, inasmuch as their ingredients are twice cooked.

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and cooked. In that case the water must be kept boiling, and must be periodically resupplied in a boiling state as it evaporates. The water must not rise to above half the height of the mould containing the pudding, in order that no portion of it may get inside the mould. If the mould can be hermetically closed, it may be boiled submerged in water. All covers of moulds should be fastened down or weighted, so that the steam may not blow them off. From this it follows that a Papin’s digester is the most suitable vessel to boil a pudding in. A closed mould for puddings has this further advautage, that its contents may be left in it until the moment of serving, as they will not become overdone or deteriorated in a short time. The larger-sized varieties of puddings are mostly boiled in a napkin, or pudding-cloth, selected for the purpose. Such a napkin or cloth must, just before use, be soaked for an hour in boiling water, and then wrung out. Butter is then spread over it, and this in its turn is dusted over with flour. This keeps the water away from the pudding, and helps in the separation of the cloth from the pudding after the coction is completed. When the ends of the cloth are gathered over the raw pudding and about to be tied, care is to be taken to leave a little, but no excess of space between the pudding and the gathering folds of the cloth, or its binding ; the pudding must be kept solid all round, but have room to expand a little. Some cooks suspend puddings in cloths by a string passing over a pulley, so as to allow a part of the top to be out of water, while the pudding is being kept together by gravity as well as the cloth ; but for this proceeding special apparatus is requisite. Some cooks prefer boiling their puddings in pans of earthen- ware, because, being slower conductors of heat than metal pots, they boil steadier, and evaporate less water than metal boilers. If tbe pudding be too closely tied it may burst the cloth, and be partially or entirely lost. But with reason- 424 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY able precaution the preparation and boiling of puddings is one of the most certain processes of culinary practice. We shortly define some puddings without giving the details of their recipes. Sir Watkin Wynn Pudding : A suet, bread, and sugar mass, with eggs, juice and zest of lemons; a classical dish. Somersetshire Pudding: Egg, flour, sugar, and butter in equal parts, flavoured. The stiri’ed mass is poured into small conical tins which are only half filled ; during baking they rise to double the volume of the dough or batter. They are eaten with wine sauce, and when cold admit of being dressed with liqueur, or wine and custard, or as trifle. They ai’e related to the biscuit puddings, resembling Savoy cake. Phimi Pudding is the national English representative of this class of dishes. It is generally boiled, but may be baked in a buttered casserole. A French author says that plum pudding was a farinaceous dish, without which there was no good meal in England ; essen- tial and constitutive were flour, eggs, and butter, the taste of which was enhanced by different ingredients : cherries, sago, citron, cauliflower, etc. Plums, required by the title, are not mentioned. Puddings of vermicelli, semolina, tax>ioca, and luheat-grits are analogous to souffles, inasmuch as their ingredients are twice cooked.

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