sisting of caseine, butter, aud sugar✪ Cheese Cakes. In ancient Rome such cakes were sometimes made of large size, as they are made in Germany in the present day, aud termed Matte- Kuchen, matte meaning curds. Of variations the best known are ornamented cheese cakes, or Coventry tartlets, but we fear that these imitations of the exterior of fanchoncttes will never be equal to the simple grace of the plain cheese cake. Mirlitons are tartlets with a basis of puff paste con- structed like cheese cakes, but with the cheese left out. Mirliton means a reed-pipe, but the metaphor by which the tartlet came to the name has not been explained. Dumas mentioned the cakes by name, but gave no description of or recipe for them. The contents of the little tartlets are portions of a compound custard flavoured with ratafias, candied orange-flowers, and spice. In variations a flavour- ing of chocolate, or an addition of pistachios or almonds, is introduced; some interpolate apricot or pineapple jam✪ Mirlitons between the puff paste and custard. Pithiviers Cakes consist of a sweet paste of almonds on a basis of puff paste✪ Pithiviers Cakes, and are produced according to two principal patterns : in the large pattern the almond cream is enclosed between two layers of puff paste ; in the small or tartlet pattern the cream is distributed in covered tartlets contained in dariole moulds. The cream or custard is in all respects the same as that of cheese cakes, but the place of the caseine is taken by the pounded almonds. Here aud there a specialized almond cake passes under the name of Gdtcau de Pithiviers without any basis or covering of puff paste. This preparation, bearing the name improperly, should be excluded from consideration under this head. D’ Artois Cakes and Condi Cakes are inventions of flattering culinarians, mere synonyms, which have done their service, and are without any further use. German Apricot Tart has a basis of puff paste, or short 4i6 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY paste, and its specificity as to fruit is that its cavity within the torta is filled with cooked slicad apricots, covered over with ajjricot ja✪ German Apricot Tartm used as a mortar. Such a tart may be made with any sort of fruit which can be stewed so as to preserve its shape, and be made into jam also ; probably apples are ideally qualified in this respect, and stand next to apricots in usefulness. The tart may be covered with a lid of puff paste, and then is what some French books term a D' Artois of Apiricots, an absurd slavish misnomer for covered apricot tart. A more simple covered tart of apples and apricots is called a turnover, the apples and jam being enclosed between two layers of tart paste. Plums, if not too juicy, and their jam, are suitable to be enclosed in turnovers; these forms of fruit pie are very popular amongst young people.

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sisting of caseine, butter, aud sugar. In ancient Rome such cakes were sometimes made of large size, as they are made in Germany in the present day, aud termed Matte- Kuchen, matte meaning curds. Of variations the best known are ornamented cheese cakes, or Coventry tartlets, but we fear that these imitations of the exterior of fanchoncttes will never be equal to the simple grace of the plain cheese cake. Mirlitons are tartlets with a basis of puff paste con- structed like cheese cakes, but with the cheese left out. Mirliton means a reed-pipe, but the metaphor by which the tartlet came to the name has not been explained. Dumas mentioned the cakes by name, but gave no description of or recipe for them. The contents of the little tartlets are portions of a compound custard flavoured with ratafias, candied orange-flowers, and spice. In variations a flavour- ing of chocolate, or an addition of pistachios or almonds, is introduced; some interpolate apricot or pineapple jam between the puff paste and custard. Pithiviers Cakes consist of a sweet paste of almonds on a basis of puff paste, and are produced according to two principal patterns : in the large pattern the almond cream is enclosed between two layers of puff paste ; in the small or tartlet pattern the cream is distributed in covered tartlets contained in dariole moulds. The cream or custard is in all respects the same as that of cheese cakes, but the place of the caseine is taken by the pounded almonds. Here aud there a specialized almond cake passes under the name of Gdtcau de Pithiviers without any basis or covering of puff paste. This preparation, bearing the name improperly, should be excluded from consideration under this head. D’ Artois Cakes and Condi Cakes are inventions of flattering culinarians, mere synonyms, which have done their service, and are without any further use. German Apricot Tart has a basis of puff paste, or short 4i6 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY paste, and its specificity as to fruit is that its cavity within the torta is filled with cooked slicad apricots, covered over with ajjricot jam used as a mortar. Such a tart may be made with any sort of fruit which can be stewed so as to preserve its shape, and be made into jam also ; probably apples are ideally qualified in this respect, and stand next to apricots in usefulness. The tart may be covered with a lid of puff paste, and then is what some French books term a D' Artois of Apiricots, an absurd slavish misnomer for covered apricot tart. A more simple covered tart of apples and apricots is called a turnover, the apples and jam being enclosed between two layers of tart paste. Plums, if not too juicy, and their jam, are suitable to be enclosed in turnovers; these forms of fruit pie are very popular amongst young people.

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