* Waffle was also supposed to be related to the English muffin, and through this to the maj'ida of the Moors in Morocco, which, e.g. at Tangiers, is sold in the streets, at the house-doors, by itinerant vendors, who use a bell like the London muffin and crumpet men. But the etymo- logy above given makes this relation doubtful. WAFFLES AND WAFERS 405 pancakes. In the Dutch or Flemish waffle - booths they are made while the consumer is waiting, and are not kept ready, to be deteriorated in taste by keeping. They can be garnished with any fruit jam or jelly in their hollows or combs, and then constitute an elegant-looking and agree- ably-tasting article of confectionery. Waffles should not be kept, but in case this be unavoidable they should be made hot before use. The, loaffie-irons, which also rejoice in the name of honey- comb-cockles, and thus bear out the derivation of loaffle from Wahe as above indicated, are constructed to offer as large as possible a surface to the contact with the dough, to produce a quickly and evenly baked light-brown product. They should be rather thick in the metal to favour an equal dis- tribution of the heat, and an equal browning of all parts of the surface of the waffle. The blades of the waffle-irons work against each other like the grasping ends of tongs. At their outer margins both waffle-iron blades close tightly upon each other, allowing only steam to escape ; but the eutii’e inside leaves just sufficient space to be uniformly filled by the dough. It follows that the form must be filled with dough only partially, to admit of the rising of the dough in baking, and at the same time it must be filled sufficiently, so that the dough is in contact with the waffle-irons at all points. Any overflowing dough is cut off with a knife; when baked, the waffle is easily lifted out of the form. Before the dough is put into the form, the latter is greased with oiled butter or lard distributed by a feather or brush, or with a slice of bacon slowly passed over the form. This greasing is particularly requisite with dough containing little or no fat. Waffles can be made of three kinds, so far as their principal constituent dough is concerned : (1) With a fer- mented thin dou(jh or sponge ; such are the waffles sold in the Dutch and Ilemish booths. They are good to eat 4o6 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY while just hot out of the iron, with a little sugar strewed over them, Imt soon become tough and lose their attraction. (2) With a stirred dough, of which flour, eggs, butter, and milk are the only ingredients ; this is the richest or fattiest form. (3) With a mixture of two doughs prepared separately as under (1) and (2). The fermented dough, having been started first, as it requires time, is called the fore-dough or siDonge, The mixed dough corresponds to the mixed doughs described above, used for brioche, Kugelhopfe, croplets, pan- cakes, etc., but is kept more fluid, so as easily to run into the waffle-iron. The variations are numerous, but not important; the mixed dough may be produced in one operation, but is less accomplished. The rising of the waffles may be efJected by the addition of ivhipped cream or whiptped white of egg to the dough ; the product is called fancy waffles, and of these there are again variations ; French sweet gauffres are such fancy gauffres.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

* Waffle was also supposed to be related to the English muffin, and through this to the majida of the Moors in Morocco, which, e.g. at Tangiers, is sold in the streets, at the house-doors, by itinerant vendors, who use a bell like the London muffin and crumpet men. But the etymology above given makes this relation doubtful. WAFFLES AND WAFERS pancakes. In the Dutch or Flemish waffle - booths they are made while the consumer is waiting, and are not kept ready, to be deteriorated in taste by keeping. They can be garnished with any fruit jam or jelly in their hollows or combs, and then constitute an elegant-looking and agreeably-tasting article of confectionery. Waffles should not be kept, but in case this be unavoidable they should be made hot before use. The waffle-irons, which also rejoice in the name of honeycomb-cockles, and thus bear out the derivation of waffle from Wahe as above indicated, are constructed to offer as large as possible a surface to the contact with the dough, to produce a quickly and evenly baked light-brown product. They should be rather thick in the metal to favour an equal distribution of the heat, and an equal browning of all parts of the surface of the waffle. The blades of the waffle-irons work against each other like the grasping ends of tongs. At their outer margins both waffle-iron blades close tightly upon each other, allowing only steam to escape ; but the entire inside leaves just sufficient space to be uniformly filled by the dough. It follows that the form must be filled with dough only partially, to admit of the rising of the dough in baking, and at the same time it must be filled sufficiently, so that the dough is in contact with the waffle-irons at all points. Any overflowing dough is cut off with a knife; when baked, the waffle is easily lifted out of the form. Before the dough is put into the form, the latter is greased with oiled butter or lard distributed by a feather or brush, or with a slice of bacon slowly passed over the form. This greasing is particularly requisite with dough containing little or no fat. Waffles can be made of three kinds, so far as their principal constituent dough is concerned : (1) With a fermented thin dough or sponge ; such are the waffles sold in the Dutch and Ilemish booths. They are good to eat 4o6 while just hot out of the iron, with a little sugar strewed over them, Imt soon become tough and lose their attraction. (2) With a stirred dough, of which flour, eggs, butter, and milk are the only ingredients ; this is the richest or fattiest form. (3) With a mixture of two doughs prepared separately as under (1) and (2). The fermented dough, having been started first, as it requires time, is called the fore-dough or sponge, The mixed dough corresponds to the mixed doughs described above, used for brioche, Kugelhopfe, croplets, pancakes, etc., but is kept more fluid, so as easily to run into the waffle-iron. The variations are numerous, but not important; the mixed dough may be produced in one operation, but is less accomplished. The rising of the waffles may be effected by the addition of whipped cream or whipped white of egg to the dough ; the product is called fancy waffles, and of these there are again variations ; French sweet gauffres are such fancy gauffres.

The spirit of cookery