Krai)fen, or Krdpifel, or Krdppel, may perhaps be related to the French crSp)e, pancake (at Berlin Krapfen are called pancakes), or it may be a flexed diminution of Kropf, from the similarity to the crop of a pigeon. They are also called German pujfs and croplets. They are the nearest analogue to ordinary flat pancakes, but differ in this, that the dough is kept stiff’er to enable the cook to roll it out, cut and fry it floating in fat, lard, butter (ghee), or olive oil. The Krapfen may receive, just before being baked, into their interior an addition of jam or fruit jelly✪ Krapfen; in that case the dough may be rolled somewhat thinner, doulffed over the jam or jelly, closed all round, and baked. Krapfen should, when introduced into the fat, at once 394 THE :SPIA’/T OF COOKERY increase in bulk upwards, and float on the largest side ; they should then be completely fried on that side to a light brown ; then they should be turned and baked on the other side. When completely done, a pale line should run round the entire outside of the croplet, indicating the zone to which it was completely immersed in the boiling fat. This soft zone enables the croplet to rise and expand to the full measure of its fermentation up to the end of the frying, and thus prevents it from bursting. The variations in the production of croplets consist in alterations of the proportions of ingredients, whereby they become more or less rich. The simple ones are good to eat while hot, but lose much quality on cooling ; they are also apt to remain doughy inside, and must therefore be fried to a darker brown than the richer compositions. Scriblita of the Bomans, first described in the work of Cato of Utica, ‘ De Ee rustica,’ consists of two doughs, one fermented and spongy, and a second one prepared with butter✪ Scriblita and eggs. When both are ready they are mixed and kept liquid like pancake batter ; this is allowed to run in a thin stream from a large ladle into the fat, and, assuming all kinds of fanciful shapes, is quickly baked and removed. As some parts are very thin and quickly done, the colour of the whole must be kept rather light. This is the oldest illustration of double dough preparations, of which the most important ones handed down to us by our forefathers are waffles, Kugelhopfe, croplets, brioches, and best pancakes. Of these, the waffles are fried between two hot iron plates, the pancake on an iron plate, %.e., a pan, in more fat than the waffles ; the Kugelhopfe and brioche are baked in the oven, the croplets and scriblita in flowing fat. rillLOSOPHY OF CAKES 395 CHAPTEE XXXII. THE PHILOSOPHY OF CAKES.

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Krai)fen, or Krdpifel, or Krdppel, may perhaps be related to the French crSp)e, pancake (at Berlin Krapfen are called pancakes), or it may be a flexed diminution of Kropf, from the similarity to the crop of a pigeon. They are also called German pujfs and croplets. They are the nearest analogue to ordinary flat pancakes, but differ in this, that the dough is kept stiff’er to enable the cook to roll it out, cut and fry it floating in fat, lard, butter (ghee), or olive oil. The Krapfen may receive, just before being baked, into their interior an addition of jam or fruit jelly; in that case the dough may be rolled somewhat thinner, doulffed over the jam or jelly, closed all round, and baked. Krapfen should, when introduced into the fat, at once 394 THE :SPIA’/T OF COOKERY increase in bulk upwards, and float on the largest side ; they should then be completely fried on that side to a light brown ; then they should be turned and baked on the other side. When completely done, a pale line should run round the entire outside of the croplet, indicating the zone to which it was completely immersed in the boiling fat. This soft zone enables the croplet to rise and expand to the full measure of its fermentation up to the end of the frying, and thus prevents it from bursting. The variations in the production of croplets consist in alterations of the proportions of ingredients, whereby they become more or less rich. The simple ones are good to eat while hot, but lose much quality on cooling ; they are also apt to remain doughy inside, and must therefore be fried to a darker brown than the richer compositions. Scriblita of the Bomans, first described in the work of Cato of Utica, ‘ De Ee rustica,’ consists of two doughs, one fermented and spongy, and a second one prepared with butter and eggs. When both are ready they are mixed and kept liquid like pancake batter ; this is allowed to run in a thin stream from a large ladle into the fat, and, assuming all kinds of fanciful shapes, is quickly baked and removed. As some parts are very thin and quickly done, the colour of the whole must be kept rather light. This is the oldest illustration of double dough preparations, of which the most important ones handed down to us by our forefathers are waffles, Kugelhopfe, croplets, brioches, and best pancakes. Of these, the waffles are fried between two hot iron plates, the pancake on an iron plate, %.e., a pan, in more fat than the waffles ; the Kugelhopfe and brioche are baked in the oven, the croplets and scriblita in flowing fat. rillLOSOPHY OF CAKES 395 CHAPTEE XXXII. THE PHILOSOPHY OF CAKES.

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