A comparison of sotoflles with other preparations con- taining the same ingredients is not without philosophical interest. Thus, pancakes are batter fried in a raw state, the frying being their only and final coction, while souffles are first cooked and then baked. The former admit of the introduction into their body of fruit in substance, such as apples, but then receive a new name, that ol fritters ; the apples taking the lead, and the batter acting only as a sub- * We have collected many excellent recipes for souffles, the best being contained in old family records. For all souffles, cf. Careme, ‘Pat. Roy. Paris,’ vol. i., pp. 349 to 365, where the difficulties attending souffle .are well described. He advises souffles to be made broad, and not high— 12 inches by 3 or 4 inches high. He .also terms every souffle Frau{'aii. Id., ibid., vol. ii., pp. 169, 317 (‘Petits Souffles ’). SOUFhLES AND PANCAKES 391 ordinate covering to them. The philosophy of pancakes is not easily written, but deserves more attention than is given to it. The most elementary pancake, for example, is Schmarn, which is the staple food during the entire winter and part of the summer of the highlanders of Bavaria and Austria. The batter is made with water and salt, and fried in lard. Every addition may improve it, but it is remark- able how well this simple form tastes when well made, and how much more attractive and digestible it is than stale bread would be under the same circumstances. Pancakes admit of the introduction of vegetable pulps in several forms. Thus, grated ijotatoas, even without a portion of the starch which is deposited when they are grated raw, mixed with batter and fried, form a very characteristic dish. The analogue of this grated-potato pancake amongst the dumplings is the glitscher, or slider, so called by the High Germans on account of the lubricated ease with which it is swallowed. For the baking of a souffle the oven should be moderately hot, so that the dish gets done slowly ; the batter may be put into any shape of earthenware or porcelain, but it is best to place it in a form of tin, which can be opened at the side in case it were desirable to remove the shape, and serve the souffle free. Most souffles should be baked imme- diately on, and surrounded by, buttered, larded, or oiled paper, and the lateral upright paper should rise much above the level of the batter, so that in rising the souffle may be contained and not overflow. The form should be well buttered under all circumstances, so that neither the batter nor the paper has any chance of adhering either to the tin or the paper. To prevent the souffle from collapsing pre- maturely, it should be placed in its shape upon another baking-sheet and surrounded with hot embers, covered with a warmed dish-cover, and thus carried to the door of the 392 THE SPIRIT OP COOKERY dining-room. Well-made, fine-grained soufiles do not easily collapse, but such as have been badly made and overheated soon lose their intended appearance. Souffles may be produced with the following principal ingredients : ✪ Souffles

AI-modernized reading of the original text

A comparison of souffles with other preparations containing the same ingredients is not without philosophical interest. Thus, pancakes are batter fried in a raw state, the frying being their only and final coction, while souffles are first cooked and then baked. The former admit of the introduction into their body of fruit in substance, such as apples, but then receive a new name, that ol fritters ; the apples taking the lead, and the batter acting only as a sub- * We have collected many excellent recipes for souffles, the best being contained in old family records. For all souffles, cf. Careme, ‘Pat. Roy. Paris,’ vol. i., pp. 349 to 365, where the difficulties attending souffle .are well described. He advises souffles to be made broad, and not high— 12 inches by 3 or 4 inches high. He .also terms every souffle Français. Id., ibid., vol. ii., pp. 169, 317 (‘Petits Souffles ’). SOUFFLES AND PANCAKES ordinate covering to them. The philosophy of pancakes is not easily written, but deserves more attention than is given to it. The most elementary pancake, for example, is Schmarn, which is the staple food during the entire winter and part of the summer of the highlanders of Bavaria and Austria. The batter is made with water and salt, and fried in lard. Every addition may improve it, but it is remarkable how well this simple form tastes when well made, and how much more attractive and digestible it is than stale bread would be under the same circumstances. Pancakes admit of the introduction of vegetable pulps in several forms. Thus, grated potatoes, even without a portion of the starch which is deposited when they are grated raw, mixed with batter and fried, form a very characteristic dish. The analogue of this grated-potato pancake amongst the dumplings is the glitscher, or slider, so called by the High Germans on account of the lubricated ease with which it is swallowed. For the baking of a souffle the oven should be moderately hot, so that the dish gets done slowly ; the batter may be put into any shape of earthenware or porcelain, but it is best to place it in a form of tin, which can be opened at the side in case it were desirable to remove the shape, and serve the souffle free. Most souffles should be baked immediately on, and surrounded by, buttered, larded, or oiled paper, and the lateral upright paper should rise much above the level of the batter, so that in rising the souffle may be contained and not overflow. The form should be well buttered under all circumstances, so that neither the batter nor the paper has any chance of adhering either to the tin or the paper. To prevent the souffle from collapsing prematurely, it should be placed in its shape upon another baking-sheet and surrounded with hot embers, covered with a warmed dish-cover, and thus carried to the door of the dining-room. Well-made, fine-grained soufiles do not easily collapse, but such as have been badly made and overheated soon lose their intended appearance. Souffles may be produced with the following principal ingredients :

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