FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 234

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Darioles: Entremets of short paste, cream, macroons, flan, eggs. Much like Kichmond (Surrey) ‘ Maids of Honour.’ Diablotins : Applies to three confections — (a) frozen cus- tards (Dantesques), {b) Neapolitan dragees ; (c) chocolate bonbons in paper. Ecliaudes : Cakes for children and birds, made of par- boiled or baked paste. Fanchonettes : Entremets, in shape of tartlets with cream, jam, currants, etc. Flan: Three varieties — (a) of cream, (b) of fruit, (c) Swiss. The latter is a cheese souffle. Flaniche: Mentioned in D.D., but not defined. Frangipane : A kind of creme with which pastry is garnished, after Don Caesar Frangipani (of a Eoman family). Qdteaux : Cakes of flour, butter, and eggs. Gauffres : Waffles. Gdnoises : Cakes of sugar, eggs, flour, and almonds, glazed. 24 370 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Gimhlettes : Small pastry or ‘ piites de petit four.’ In- gredients of croquembouches. Macarons : Macroons with almonds or nuts (filberts). Massepain : Possibly corrupted from German Marcipan. Madeleines : Cakes of dariole kind ; those of Commercy celebrated. Meringues : Spongy cakes of white of egg and sugar, filled with whipped cream. Mince-pies : English ; patties of short paste, open or closed, with mincemeat. Mirletons, syn. Mirlitons : Same as flans. Mousseline : A kind of brioche, called ‘ brioche-mousse- line.’ Pannequets : Corruption of the English pancakes. PctUs : pasties. PcUes-froids, cold pasties ; pdtes-chauds, hot pasties. Piskiniojfs : Polish cakes ; corrupted to biscuit de niauffes. Profiterolles : Sweet entremets ; a cake. Rissoles : Mincemeat enclosed in paste, and fried. Talmouses : Darioles with fromage de Brie. Tarte aux fruits : A crust of flake dough for fruit pies. Tartelettes : Diminutive of preceding. Timbale : Drum-like pudding -shell. Tourtes : Elake paste for ragouts for entrees in France. Vol-au-vent : Case of puff and short paste for ragoiits, etc. Bread. Bread indicates a relatively far-advanced state of human culture. According to Cato, the old Eomaus had been reared upon gruel, and this soup- like preparation was down to our days the general or occasional food of entire popula- tions. When gruel was superseded by better preparations, e.g., porridge, it was limited to the breakfast-table, ultimately to the sick-chamber ; it survives in workhouses as skilly. EARLY FORMS OF BREAD 371 Now gruel is boiled, but the poorest Scotch occasionally ate a paste of oatmeal and water uncooked,* and, next to chewing the unmilled grain, this Scotch method of eating flour seems the most simple mode of cereal feeding of which we have any knowledge. Simple forms of bread, which by contrast with the more developed forms are termed unleavened, are the oatcaha of Scotland, her peas and barley bannocks, the Passover bread of the Jews, the damper of the Australian shepherd, the American corn-bread, the Indian chuppattee, Spanish wheat- flour cake, and others. The Schmarn of the Bavarian and Austrian wood-hacker is also unfermented, but, being fried in fat, assumes a particular character.