FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 227

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
An excellent herb with which to flavour salads, particularly those of lettuce, is the borage — Borago officinalis, L. ; French, hourrache — with rough spiny leaves and blue flowers. The name borago is conjectured to be a modification of the verb corago, I rejoice the heart. The use of garlic in salads is as contested a subject as the use of these bulbs in general cookery. It is a practice of those desirous of imparting a mild garlic flavour to cichory or endive salad to place on the bottom of the salad-bowl a crust of stale bread which has been rubbed with more or less garlic. This small piece of bread is, in-France, called a capon {chapon). Of this name some humorous, though conflicting, explanations have been given, in which the Greek island of Cos, and the county of Gaux in France, dispute each other the honour of having first produced the capon. On the other hand, it is asserted that the chapon, consisting of a crust of stale bread rubbed with garlic, originated neither in Cos nor in Caux, but in Gascony ; and it is surmised that as the Gascons were poor and inclined to vanity, it might have, occurred to one of them to call the crust rubbed with garlic in the bottom of his salad-bowl a ‘ capon,’ in order to be able truthfully to reply to sympathetic friends inquiring after his dinner, or to spontaneously boast, that he had dined superbly on a and salad. And this combination of salad with a piece of bread a humorist has alleged to be a good enough dinner for a Gascon. USE AND AVOIDANCE OF GAELIC 359 While the Egyptians, apparently of all ranks, valued garlic highly, the higher society of the Greeks absolutely detested it. The Eomans, on the whole, used it regularly. Virgil speaks of it as useful to the reapers during periods of great heat, and Macer, also a poet, believed that it would keep serpents away from sleepers. Nevertheless, according to Athenteus, the more refined part of society put an inter- dict upon its use, which took this emphatic form — that it was made an offence to enter a temple of Cybele after having eaten garlic. Horace having on the day of his first arrival at Eome dined on sheep’s head dressed with garlic, and contracted an indigestion, ever after entertained feelings of abhorrence for the bulb. King Alphonso of Castile had a similar dislike ; for when he created a new order of knights in 1368, he forbade them to eat any garlic. In our century Easpail did yet recommend garlic as a wholesome flavour ; and the gall-stone specialist Durand, in recommending it to patients, ascribed to it the quality of sapidity, probably by a confusion of terms.