It is distinguished by an intense odour of asafcetida, the vegetable gum formerly used in medicine and in cookery. Volatile oil of mustard is a product of decomposition of an acid, which is present in mustard as potassium salt, and passes as myronic acid. It is obtained from black mustard. 350 THE SPIRIT OP COOKERY not from white. It can also be extracted from oil of garlic and from oil of asafoctida. A hundred parts of crushed mus- tard-seeds yield from 0-2 to 1‘2 parts of oil. The oil is colourless, boils at 148 C.°, has a sharp and penetrating taste and odour, excites tears, and inflames and blisters the skin. Horseradish, Cochlearia armoracea, owes its pungent taste and flavour to the presence of a sulphurized oil related to oil of mustard, but contains only small quantities of it, 2,000 parts of root yielding by distillation with water 1 part of oil. One drop of this oil fills a large room with the odour of horseradish. Cresses and radishes contain and yield oils related to the foregoing, but they are peculiar in subordinate features. The volatile oils obtained by distillation with water from many parts of cruciferous plants, seeds, flowers, leaves, and stalks, are probably mostly mixtures of several oils. All the cabbage tribe yield such oils, some undoubtedly garlic oil, others oils of peculiar character. All are sulphurized, and this explains in a measure the loudly-announced phenomena of their decomposition. The use of bulbs and herbage containing sulphurized oil has been much restricted in cookery during this century. Eagouts and purees of onions are now made with materials previously toned down by parboiling in water. The fine Spanish and Portuguese onions also are parboiled before being immersed in espagnole sauce. But the pur6e of garlic which was a celebrated dish at the Trois Fr^res Proven9eaux at Paris in the first half of this century, prepared with cod- fish, and passing as Morue d la Puree d’Ail, has disappeared. Some surmise that it owed its reputation to the mild nature of the ProvenQal garlic, and that had it been made with northern garlic it could not have been eaten. SALADS AND THEIR MATERIALS 351 CHAPTEE XXVIII. SALADS AND THEIR MATERIALS ; WITH AN AP- PENDIX ON VEGETABLES GROWN AND OBTAIN- ABLE IN INDIA FOR USE THERE. The dressing, or, as it is absurdly termed in French, assaisonnement, or, Anglic^, seasoning, of a salad was in the early days of the century considered by some as a special art. This is illustrated by the biography of the Chevalier d’Albignac, who is related to have developed from a Royalist refugee into a professional ‘ fashionable salad-maker,’ whom the elegant world of the capital of these three kingdoms employed in his speciality on all suitable occasions. Unfor- tunately for the epigones, the Chevalier has not left his recipes on record, so that his performance probably partook of the impromptu, guided by memory and graduated gusta- tion. But we are allowed a glimpse into his repertoire by the list of the preparations which he is related to have carried with him in his portable laboratory — vinegar of different perfumes, oils with and without ‘the taste of fruit,’ soy, caviare, truffles, anchovies, ketchup, meat gravy, and egg-yolks. By the practice of his art and the sale of his cruet-boxes, this &migr6 is reputed to have made a small fortune, with which he retired into the Limousin and lived in happy retirement.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

It is distinguished by an intense odour of asafetida, the vegetable gum formerly used in medicine and in cookery. Volatile oil of mustard is a product of decomposition of an acid, which is present in mustard as potassium salt, and passes as myronic acid. It is obtained from black mustard. not from white. It can also be extracted from oil of garlic and from oil of asafetida. A hundred parts of crushed mustard-seeds yield from 0-2 to 1‘2 parts of oil. The oil is colourless, boils at 148 C.°, has a sharp and penetrating taste and odour, excites tears, and inflames and blisters the skin. Horseradish, Cochlearia armoracea, owes its pungent taste and flavour to the presence of a sulphurized oil related to oil of mustard, but contains only small quantities of it, 2,000 parts of root yielding by distillation with water 1 part of oil. One drop of this oil fills a large room with the odour of horseradish. Cresses and radishes contain and yield oils related to the foregoing, but they are peculiar in subordinate features. The volatile oils obtained by distillation with water from many parts of cruciferous plants, seeds, flowers, leaves, and stalks, are probably mostly mixtures of several oils. All the cabbage tribe yield such oils, some undoubtedly garlic oil, others oils of peculiar character. All are sulphurized, and this explains in a measure the loudly-announced phenomena of their decomposition. The use of bulbs and herbage containing sulphurized oil has been much restricted in cookery during this century. Ragouts and purees of onions are now made with materials previously toned down by parboiling in water. The fine Spanish and Portuguese onions also are parboiled before being immersed in espagnole sauce. But the purée of garlic which was a celebrated dish at the Trois Frères Provençeaux at Paris in the first half of this century, prepared with codfish, and passing as Morue d la Puree d’Ail, has disappeared. Some surmise that it owed its reputation to the mild nature of the Provençal garlic, and that had it been made with northern garlic it could not have been eaten. SALADS AND THEIR MATERIALS CHAPTER XXVIII. SALADS AND THEIR MATERIALS ; WITH AN AP- PENDIX ON VEGETABLES GROWN AND OBTAIN- ABLE IN INDIA FOR USE THERE. The dressing, or, as it is absurdly termed in French, assaisonnement, or, Anglicé, seasoning, of a salad was in the early days of the century considered by some as a special art. This is illustrated by the biography of the Chevalier d’Albignac, who is related to have developed from a Royalist refugee into a professional ‘ fashionable salad-maker,’ whom the elegant world of the capital of these three kingdoms employed in his speciality on all suitable occasions. Unfortunately for the epigones, the Chevalier has not left his recipes on record, so that his performance probably partook of the impromptu, guided by memory and graduated gustation. But we are allowed a glimpse into his repertoire by the list of the preparations which he is related to have carried with him in his portable laboratory — vinegar of different perfumes, oils with and without ‘the taste of fruit,’ soy, caviare, truffles, anchovies, ketchup, meat gravy, and egg-yolks. By the practice of his art and the sale of his cruet-boxes, this émigré is reputed to have made a small fortune, with which he retired into the Limousin and lived in happy retirement.

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