The potato-plant is a member of the genus Solanum, or nightshade, of which we gave some notes under the head- ing of Tomatoes. The early varieties of potatoes grow and ripen in from seventy to ninety days after the earthing of the so-called seed - tubers, such as those grown on the Atlantic Islands, at Malta, and other warm places ; while the large late potatoes of the moderate zone require 180 days from the time of planting. Potatoes are frequently carried to market in an unripe state, and then are watery and not wholesome — at least, not attractive. The potato contains in the mean 75*77 per cent, of water, or as much as meat ; nitrogenized substances, 1*79 per cent. ; fat, 0*16 per cent. ; starch, 20*56 per cent. ; woody fibre, 0*75 per cent. ; and ash, 0*97 per cent. Of the 1*79 per cent, nitrogenized matter, 1*18 are soluble and insoluble albuminous matter, while 0*61 per cent, consists of asparagin, the substance of which we have spoken under Asparagus and Scorzonera, or Salsifis, and 342 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY of some aviido-acicls. There is also a small quantity of solanin present in the potato, the deleterious substance of which a larger quantity forms in the shoots which the tubers send out in spring. Solanin is a saccharide, or body which by decomposition yields sugar. It is not poisonous in the small quantities in which it is ever present in the tubers. When more of it is formed, e.g., under the in- fluence of the exposure of the potatoes to light, these latter assume, besides a green colour, a disagreeable taste, and this protects from the consumption of solanin in poisonous quantities. The introduction of potatoes as a popular aliment was opposed for a long time after their first importation by Ealeigh in 1585. Even as late as a century ago it required the labours of a French physician, Parmentier, to cause the last opposition to disappear; and when he was pro- posed for the office of municipal councillor, a woman of the people opposed him with the words : ‘ He would make us eat nothing but potatoes.’ The tubers are eaten hailed, steavied, baked, stewed, fried, or sautdes, boiled and mashed, as purde, as dumplings, crogxiettes, or quenelles, in various fancy forms, such as excavated and stuffed, or farcied. For some dishes mealy or floury potatoes are preferable ; for others, such as potatoes in ^ohite sauce, or potato salad, the less mealy, more consistent small Dutch potatoes, or finger potatoes, are preferable. On tbe preparation of potatoes an essay might be written for the information of many cooks, to induce them to observe the rationale of the preparations which are empirically detailed in cookery-books. Those who seek excellence in ‘ a hundred ways ’ are sure to miss the easily attainable good. The Cabbage Tribe. Seakale, Crambe maritima, is not eaten in its full grown state, but only the sprouts of its second year’s growth are THE CABBAGE TRIBE 343 used in the white or etiolated state. In this condition it is a very neutral vegetable, of a feeble flavour, but agreeably juicy. It is remarkable as being a soda-plant, so called because in its ash soda compounds prevail greatly over potash compounds. Such plants are found almost ex- clusively near the seashore, or in salty steppes, or near salt springs and salt works. Seakale is mostly eaten plain - boiled with white sauce, but is much enriched in taste by some gravy or coulis.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The potato-plant is a member of the genus Solanum, or nightshade, of which we gave some notes under the heading of Tomatoes. The early varieties of potatoes grow and ripen in from seventy to ninety days after the earthing of the so-called seed - tubers, such as those grown on the Atlantic Islands, at Malta, and other warm places ; while the large late potatoes of the moderate zone require 180 days from the time of planting. Potatoes are frequently carried to market in an unripe state, and then are watery and not wholesome — at least, not attractive. The potato contains in the mean 75*77 per cent, of water, or as much as meat ; nitrogenized substances, 1*79 per cent. ; fat, 0*16 per cent. ; starch, 20*56 per cent. ; woody fibre, 0*75 per cent. ; and ash, 0*97 per cent. Of the 1*79 per cent, nitrogenized matter, 1*18 are soluble and insoluble albuminous matter, while 0*61 per cent, consists of asparagin, the substance of which we have spoken under Asparagus and Scorzonera, or Salsifis, and of some aviido-acicls. There is also a small quantity of solanin present in the potato, the deleterious substance of which a larger quantity forms in the shoots which the tubers send out in spring. Solanin is a saccharide, or body which by decomposition yields sugar. It is not poisonous in the small quantities in which it is ever present in the tubers. When more of it is formed, e.g., under the influence of the exposure of the potatoes to light, these latter assume, besides a green colour, a disagreeable taste, and this protects from the consumption of solanin in poisonous quantities. The introduction of potatoes as a popular aliment was opposed for a long time after their first importation by Raleigh in 1585. Even as late as a century ago it required the labours of a French physician, Parmentier, to cause the last opposition to disappear; and when he was proposed for the office of municipal councillor, a woman of the people opposed him with the words : ‘ He would make us eat nothing but potatoes.’ The tubers are eaten boiled, steamed, baked, stewed, fried, or sautes, boiled and mashed, as purde, as dumplings, croquettes, or quenelles, in various fancy forms, such as excavated and stuffed, or farcied. For some dishes mealy or floury potatoes are preferable ; for others, such as potatoes in white sauce, or potato salad, the less mealy, more consistent small Dutch potatoes, or finger potatoes, are preferable. On the preparation of potatoes an essay might be written for the information of many cooks, to induce them to observe the rationale of the preparations which are empirically detailed in cookery-books. Those who seek excellence in ‘ a hundred ways ’ are sure to miss the easily attainable good. The Cabbage Tribe. Seakale, Crambe maritima, is not eaten in its full grown state, but only the sprouts of its second year’s growth are THE CABBAGE TRIBE used in the white or etiolated state. In this condition it is a very neutral vegetable, of a feeble flavour, but agreeably juicy. It is remarkable as being a soda-plant, so called because in its ash soda compounds prevail greatly over potash compounds. Such plants are found almost exclusively near the seashore, or in salty steppes, or near salt springs and salt works. Seakale is mostly eaten plain - boiled with white sauce, but is much enriched in taste by some gravy or coulis.

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