Skiff ed Artichohes are of four qualities, characterized by the nature of the farce placed on their bottoms, and will enable the reader to appreciate some of the subtle distinctions of French culinary art. The plain stuffed are in favour for fast days, those with rich farce for ordinary use. Arti- chokes a la Barigoiile also go by the name of a la D' Uxelles. They are baked filled with farce, and accompanied with Italian sauce. Those a la demi-Barigoule are stewed in a savoury coulis, and those d la vraie Barigoule are first fried (rissole), and then braised. Artichokes are also fried in hatter, being suitably dressed, or in hot batter with savoury herbs, French sa^it&s, or baked in oil, etc., a la Provengale. The boiled artichoke may also be eaten cold with oil or pepper sauce. The recipes occurring in French culinary works under the titles of Artichauts axe gras, a la Lyonnaise, farcis d la Grimod de la ReyyiiHre, and h V Italienne, are all contained in principle in the Barigoule or D’Uxelles form. Grimod’s recipe alone includes massive fried onions in the farce for the artichoke, and grated cheese. Nearly all the re- cipes ascribed to the editor of the ‘ Almanach des Gourmands ’ exult in onions and cheese, and this practice the author of the ‘ M6moires de Madame de Crequi,’ an enthusiastic magirist, applauded. At that time the French kitchen was decidedly deteriorated by what history has shown to have been a gust of coarse predilections and idle afi'ectation. ASPARAGUS 327 Asparagus. The name of asparagus is said to be derived from asper, as many species of this genus are very spiny. This state- ment shows the danger of endeavouring to derive names from similarity of sound, or subordinate qualities of the objects named. Asparagos is an original Greek word for the shoot which rises from the root of the plant called asparagia. It has no connection at all with the Latin adjective aspar, but might possibly be related to the Greek aspartos, signifying a plant which grows wild and is not sown. Such a name could well be suggested by the perennial character of the plant, which is found round the Mediterranean, and in its warmer homes shoots twice a year. The asparagus of our gardens is an improved form of this wild shore-plant, and in botany bears the name of officinal, because its roots (not its shoots) were formerly much used in medicine as one of the five major ap>eritives, which were combined in a syrup bearing that name. The red berries also had similar properties, and their fermentable juice was an ingredient of the Benedict Electuary. Only to the young shoots pharmaceutical properties were never ascribed, while their dietetic and nutritive properties were so highly appreciated from the earliest times, that by a generalization all edible young shoots of whatever plants were termed aspar agoi. The alimentary use of asparagus was appreciated by the ancients, so that Pliny refers to it in glowing terms. Ac- cording to him, the cultivation of this plant at Eavenna had been perfected so much that three shoots weighed a pound. The cultivation of the asparagus occupies a remarkable chapter of horticultural science, and has given rise to an extensive literature. Out of many prescriptions for the preparation of the beds on which the roots are to be 328 THE SPIRIT OF COOKER}

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Stuffed Artichokes are of four qualities, characterized by the nature of the farce placed on their bottoms, and will enable the reader to appreciate some of the subtle distinctions of French culinary art. The plain stuffed are in favour for fast days, those with rich farce for ordinary use. Artichokes a la Barigoiile also go by the name of a la D' Uxelles. They are baked filled with farce, and accompanied with Italian sauce. Those a la demi-Barigoule are stewed in a savoury coulis, and those d la vraie Barigoule are first fried (rissole), and then braised. Artichokes are also fried in hatter, being suitably dressed, or in hot batter with savoury herbs, French sautés, or baked in oil, etc., a la Provengale. The boiled artichoke may also be eaten cold with oil or pepper sauce. The recipes occurring in French culinary works under the titles of Artichauts aux gras, a la Lyonnaise, farcis d la Grimod de la Grimod de la Reynière, and h V Italienne, are all contained in principle in the Barigoule or D’Uxelles form. Grimod’s recipe alone includes massive fried onions in the farce for the artichoke, and grated cheese. Nearly all the recipes ascribed to the editor of the ‘ Almanach des Gourmands ’ exult in onions and cheese, and this practice the author of the ‘ Mémoires de Madame de Créqui,’ an enthusiastic magirist, applauded. At that time the French kitchen was decidedly deteriorated by what history has shown to have been a gust of coarse predilections and idle affectation. ASPARAGUS Asparagus. The name of asparagus is said to be derived from asper, as many species of this genus are very spiny. This statement shows the danger of endeavouring to derive names from similarity of sound, or subordinate qualities of the objects named. Asparagos is an original Greek word for the shoot which rises from the root of the plant called asparagia. It has no connection at all with the Latin adjective aspar, but might possibly be related to the Greek aspartos, signifying a plant which grows wild and is not sown. Such a name could well be suggested by the perennial character of the plant, which is found round the Mediterranean, and in its warmer homes shoots twice a year. The asparagus of our gardens is an improved form of this wild shore-plant, and in botany bears the name of officinal, because its roots (not its shoots) were formerly much used in medicine as one of the five major ap>eritives, which were combined in a syrup bearing that name. The red berries also had similar properties, and their fermentable juice was an ingredient of the Benedict Electuary. Only to the young shoots pharmaceutical properties were never ascribed, while their dietetic and nutritive properties were so highly appreciated from the earliest times, that by a generalization all edible young shoots of whatever plants were termed aspar agoi. The alimentary use of asparagus was appreciated by the ancients, so that Pliny refers to it in glowing terms. According to him, the cultivation of this plant at Eavenna had been perfected so much that three shoots weighed a pound. The cultivation of the asparagus occupies a remarkable chapter of horticultural science, and has given rise to an extensive literature. Out of many prescriptions for the preparation of the beds on which the roots are to be

The spirit of cookery