containing 92-37 per cent, of water, 2-5 per cent, of sugar, and about 1-5 per cent, of nitrogenized and 1-5 per cent, of non-nitrogenized extractives. Take care to buy only ripe tomatoes, and avoid the unripe form which has been taken from the bush in the green state, and been forced by exposure to sunlight to change its colour to red. Such a tomato is always flat in taste and poor in pulp. Another Solanum, the nigru7n, L., the deadly nightshade, called so from the deleterious effect of its hlack berries, was formerly eaten in England as a greeii vegetable.* Its French popular name is morelle, like that of its medically so impor- tant relative, Solanum dulcamara, the creeping hittersxoeet or Atropa belladonna,!). Another Solanum, of which the fruit, coloured dark violet, size of a very large pear, is eatable when prepared much like gourd or vegetable-marrow, is the one called esculentum, L., known and sold in France under the name of aiobergine (also mdlonghre, mayeiine, varcn- geane), and eaten in Provence and Languedoc. It comes from India, where it is called fokke-foJcM, or brinjal, and eaten in soup and other forms, even as chutney. In the Antilles it is called gitingambo. Of the two alkaloids, atropin and solanin, which are poisonous, none occurs in the tomatoes, although their leaves are said at certain periods to be noxious. Tomatoes form an ornamental and well-tasting entremets when stuffed with forcemeat and braised {a la Pi-ovenqale) in salad-oil, and gratinated with breadcrumb and the sala- mander. Artichokes. The artichoke belongs to the family of Carduacece. Its systematic name, Cynara, is said to be derived from kyon. While it was, no doubt, prepared, cooked, and eaten as a vegetable, it 18 possible that tins was done to obtain healing effects. Cf. Gatacker, Observations on the Internal Use of the Solanum.’ London, 1767. 324 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Greek for dog, because the spines of its calyx resemble the teeth of dogs. Its relative, the car don, Cynara cardun- czohcs, L., which has served as an illustration in a former chapter, comes frorti Barbary, and is cultivated in Central and Southern Europe. Its leaves are etiolated to prepare their large and thick petioles for being eaten. (These cardans must be distinguished from the cardes, which are the petioles of Beta vulgaris, var. Cicla, mangold.) They are prepared much like the true artichoke. The artichoke, Cynara scolyvius, L., comes also from Barbary, and its name indicates its Arabian origin ; for from the Arab khar chiof are derived all other names which it bears in European languages. It was well known to the ancient Greeks and Eomans, and cultivated all over Central Europe. Its large flower-buds, called heads, contain the eatable part, which is excessively small in comparison to the large size of the entire plant. This edible part is the receptacle or base of the calyx and the calicinal leaves, while the centre, called hay, consisting of flowers and silky threads, has to be removed. Young artichokes may be eaten raw, as salad, but they soon become solid, and then require boiling. In any case the calicinal leaves have to be chewed or pulled between the teeth in order to extract their edible contents. The base, called in French cul d’artichaut, is more substantial, and may be cut in pieces for prepara- tion.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

containing 92-37 per cent, of water, 2-5 per cent, of sugar, and about 1-5 per cent, of nitrogenized and 1-5 per cent, of non-nitrogenized extractives. Take care to buy only ripe tomatoes, and avoid the unripe form which has been taken from the bush in the green state, and been forced by exposure to sunlight to change its colour to red. Such a tomato is always flat in taste and poor in pulp. Another Solanum, the nigrum, L., the deadly nightshade, called so from the deleterious effect of its black berries, was formerly eaten in England as a green vegetable.* Its French popular name is morelle, like that of its medically so important relative, Solanum dulcamara, the creeping bittersweet or Atropa belladonna,!). Another Solanum, of which the fruit, coloured dark violet, size of a very large pear, is eatable when prepared much like gourd or vegetable-marrow, is the one called esculentum, L., known and sold in France under the name of aubergine (also mélongène, mayeiine, varengane), and eaten in Provence and Languedoc. It comes from India, where it is called fokke-fokki, or brinjal, and eaten in soup and other forms, even as chutney. In the Antilles it is called gingambo. Of the two alkaloids, atropin and solanin, which are poisonous, none occurs in the tomatoes, although their leaves are said at certain periods to be noxious. Tomatoes form an ornamental and well-tasting entremets when stuffed with forcemeat and braised {a la Pi-ovenqale) in salad-oil, and gratinated with breadcrumb and the salamander. Artichokes. The artichoke belongs to the family of Carduacece. Its systematic name, Cynara, is said to be derived from kyon. While it was, no doubt, prepared, cooked, and eaten as a vegetable, it 18 possible that tins was done to obtain healing effects. Cf. Gatacker, Observations on the Internal Use of the Solanum.’ London, 1767. Greek for dog, because the spines of its calyx resemble the teeth of dogs. Its relative, the car don, Cynara cardunczohcs, L., which has served as an illustration in a former chapter, comes frorti Barbary, and is cultivated in Central and Southern Europe. Its leaves are etiolated to prepare their large and thick petioles for being eaten. (These cardans must be distinguished from the cardes, which are the petioles of Beta vulgaris, var. Cicla, mangold.) They are prepared much like the true artichoke. The artichoke, Cynara scolyvius, L., comes also from Barbary, and its name indicates its Arabian origin ; for from the Arab khar chiof are derived all other names which it bears in European languages. It was well known to the ancient Greeks and Eomans, and cultivated all over Central Europe. Its large flower-buds, called heads, contain the eatable part, which is excessively small in comparison to the large size of the entire plant. This edible part is the receptacle or base of the calyx and the calicinal leaves, while the centre, called hay, consisting of flowers and silky threads, has to be removed. Young artichokes may be eaten raw, as salad, but they soon become solid, and then require boiling. In any case the calicinal leaves have to be chewed or pulled between the teeth in order to extract their edible contents. The base, called in French cul d’artichaut, is more substantial, and may be cut in pieces for preparation.

The spirit of cookery