FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 203

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Celery, in German spelled Sellerie, is probably derived from its Greek name selinon, which Linne used in com- pounding the distinctive adjective of its relative, parsley. Apiv/m is described as the plant beloved by the bees (apis). The older English botanists called celery ache ; it has been THE SriElT OF COOKERY 3i« suggested that the terminal ac of celeriac might be a survival of this name ache. In some English botanical works the name apimn is derived from the Celtic word apon, wet, watery. The German name for celery isEppich, and from the plant preferring wet places it is also called palustval or Swnpf-Eppich. The Greeks used celery-leaves for making crowns which were awarded for victories in the Isthmian and Nem®an games ; the Romans,* however, used it as garlands (mixed with myrtle) round their heads, to neutralize, it is alleged, the power of wine. We enumerate some preparations of celery which have more or less currency in magiric practice. A ragoiU of celery-stalks may be varied in several ways ; it should be savoury with coulis or broth. Fried celery is produced with the aid of a batter. Celery-stalks with cream, or bechamel, is a suitable garnish for boiled fowl. A variation is made with veloute. Braised celery with espagnole is very tasty ; with allemande, milder. Steived celery-roots, or celeriac, with savoury coulis, is a highly flavoured dish ; , another form is produced with Dutch sauce. Celeriac may also be excavated, stuffed, and braised. Scorzonera, or Salsifis. The French consider these roots as a material for soup, . and when only small quantities of them are at the disposal of the cook, this is probably the best use that can be made of them. But larger quantities are more suitable for pre- sentation as vegetable entremets. There are two varieties of salsifis grown — the gray, also called white, and the black. Some reserve the name of salsifis altogether to the white variety. We believe that the plant is little cultivated in England, but the roots in the market are imported as scorzonera. This is the black salsifis. It is remarkable by * Celery, crowns of : cf. Voss, ‘ Virg. Eclog.,’ 6, 68 ; Orelli, ‘ Horat. Od.,’ 7, 24. SCORZONIiRA OR SALSIFIS 3’9 containing much, asparcujin, a body which bears its name from having been originally discovered in asparagus-roots and shoots in 1805 by Vauquelin and Eobiquet. This nitrogenized substance is found in many plants at different stages of their development, most abundantly in young shoots of Leguminosse, e.cj., beans, peas, and vetches. The scorzonera may be termed the autumnal or wintry asparagus ; for although it is a root, and not a shoot, it resembles the asparagus much by its chemical ingredients ; in flavour, however, it differs again from it. It contains about 80 per cent, of water, 1 per cent, of nitrogenous matter, 0-5 per cent, of fat, 2-2 per cent, of sugar, 12-6 per cent, of other non-nitrogenized matter, 2-3 per cent, of woody fibre, and 1-0 per cent, of ash. It is a cichoraceoiis plant ; its name salsifis is of uncertain derivation, but that of scorzonera (or escorzonera) comes from the Spanish scurzon, a viper, and the plant bears the adjective hisjMiiica. Its early second year’s leaves, grown in the cellar, can be eaten as salad.