Bagout of Sioeetbreacl — one of the finest ; of Cocks'
Combs and Kernels, called en Financiere, from the sauce.
These bodies, being themselves tasteless, require careful
saucing to serve as vehicles ; if badly prepared, they justly
excite contempt. Bagodt d la Toidouse is very complicated ;
may be given with allemande or supreme sauce in a vol-au-
vent or a casserole of rice. From its many optional in-
gredients, it is also called Bagout meld and Bagodt fin.
Calf’s-head Bagodt (en Tortue, because the calf’s head is
prepared as for mock-turtle) is an excellent preparation ;
the one called d la Chiioolata contains more strongly spiced
farce to serve as garnish to roast or boiled turkey, capon,
or poulard. Similarly classical are the ragouts of Ox-palates ;
Bed Sheep)' s Tongues ; Stuffed Chicken-ioings ; Fillets of Fotvl
or Game ; Fillets of Larks ; Goose-liver, d la Strasbourg ;
Quenelles of Chicken ; of Eel-fillets ; of Crayfish-tails and
Quenelles of Whiting ; of Crayfish-tails , Mussels, and Oysters ;
of Prawns or Shrimps in place of Crayfish ; of Fillets of Sole,
Salmon, Trout ; soft Boe of Carp or other fish.
Of cuiHosities amongst ragouts, we have met with two —
one of Carps' Tongues, a mockery of an antiquated paradox ;
and a Bagodt of Babbits' Tongues, which was imagined and
produced by Vuillemot.
An old form of ragout is termed a Tcrrine, and is really
an entree, which takes its name from the former custom of
serving the meat in the very terrine in which it had been
PUREES OF VEGETABLES 305
cooked. Later on a terrine came to be composed of several
varieties of meat braised together, and served in a vessel
still called terrine— i.e., earthenware pan— but mostly made
of silver or porcelain, or enamelled iron. Prepared ragouts,
or cold pates, such as the livers of chocks of Toulouse or
of Nerac, are sold and sent in terrines (tureens). ^ The
Terrine d Vancienne mode, or clu Louvre, made according to
a recipe by Leclercq, had the greatest reputation amongst
dishes of this kind ; its ingredients were fat chicken,
partridge, back of hare, nut of veal and of mutton, all
larded and spiced, boiled in broth, with roasted chestnuts
and fine herbs✪ Terrine d'Vancienne added.
CHAPTER XXIV.
PUREES OF VEGETABLES USED AS GARNISHES OR
AS ENTREES.
The name puree was originally confined to pea soup,
as we see from Varenue,* where it is considered as
interchangeable with this (‘ Potage aux pois, ou puree').
The soaked and swelled peas are to be boiled, and the
bouillon is to be taken off without crushing the peas ; if
more bouillon be wanted, a second decoction may be made.
It was this bouillon without the peas which was termed
pur&e, and was more particularly specialized as puree claire,
and used as the bouillon for soups au maigre. Thus, the
frog sooip and crayfish soup (‘ Potage aux ecrevisses en fa^on
de bisque’) were to be made with it,f and it was declared
preferable to fish bouillon. But in the course of time the
entire pea soup, with the crushed and disintegrated peas in
it, was called puree, and then gradually the liquid was lost
* Varcnno, loc. cil., p. 71. t Bdd., loc. cU., pp. 78, 79.
20
3o6
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
Page 195 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
Bagout of Sioeetbreacl — one of the finest ; of Cocks'
Combs and Kernels, called en Financiere, from the sauce.
These bodies, being themselves tasteless, require careful
saucing to serve as vehicles ; if badly prepared, they justly
excite contempt. Bagodt d la Toidouse is very complicated ;
may be given with allemande or supreme sauce in a vol-au-
vent or a casserole of rice. From its many optional in-
gredients, it is also called Bagout meld and Bagodt fin.
Calf’s-head Bagodt (en Tortue, because the calf’s head is
prepared as for mock-turtle) is an excellent preparation ;
the one called d la Chiioolata contains more strongly spiced
farce to serve as garnish to roast or boiled turkey, capon,
or poulard. Similarly classical are the ragouts of Ox-palates ;
Bed Sheep)' s Tongues ; Stuffed Chicken-ioings ; Fillets of Fotvl
or Game ; Fillets of Larks ; Goose-liver, d la Strasbourg ;
Quenelles of Chicken ; of Eel-fillets ; of Crayfish-tails and
Quenelles of Whiting ; of Crayfish-tails , Mussels, and Oysters ;
of Prawns or Shrimps in place of Crayfish ; of Fillets of Sole,
Salmon, Trout ; soft Boe of Carp or other fish.
Of cuiHosities amongst ragouts, we have met with two —
one of Carps' Tongues, a mockery of an antiquated paradox ;
and a Bagodt of Babbits' Tongues, which was imagined and
produced by Vuillemot.
An old form of ragout is termed a Tcrrine, and is really
an entree, which takes its name from the former custom of
serving the meat in the very terrine in which it had been
PUREES OF VEGETABLES 305
cooked. Later on a terrine came to be composed of several
varieties of meat braised together, and served in a vessel
still called terrine— i.e., earthenware pan— but mostly made
of silver or porcelain, or enamelled iron. Prepared ragouts,
or cold pates, such as the livers of chocks of Toulouse or
of Nerac, are sold and sent in terrines (tureens). ^ The
Terrine d Vancienne mode, or clu Louvre, made according to
a recipe by Leclercq, had the greatest reputation amongst
dishes of this kind ; its ingredients were fat chicken,
partridge, back of hare, nut of veal and of mutton, all
larded and spiced, boiled in broth, with roasted chestnuts
and fine herbs added.
CHAPTER XXIV.
PUREES OF VEGETABLES USED AS GARNISHES OR
AS ENTREES.
The name puree was originally confined to pea soup,
as we see from Varenue,* where it is considered as
interchangeable with this (‘ Potage aux pois, ou puree').
The soaked and swelled peas are to be boiled, and the
bouillon is to be taken off without crushing the peas ; if
more bouillon be wanted, a second decoction may be made.
It was this bouillon without the peas which was termed
pur&e, and was more particularly specialized as puree claire,
and used as the bouillon for soups au maigre. Thus, the
frog sooip and crayfish soup (‘ Potage aux ecrevisses en fa^on
de bisque’) were to be made with it,f and it was declared
preferable to fish bouillon. But in the course of time the
entire pea soup, with the crushed and disintegrated peas in
it, was called puree, and then gradually the liquid was lost
* Varcnno, loc. cil., p. 71. t Bdd., loc. cU., pp. 78, 79.
20
3o6
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY