FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 188 · 2 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Kronieskys (d la Btisse), also called kraniouskys, are force- meat balls of any of the materials just mentioned, wrapped in braised calf’s udder, thinly cut, immersed in butter, and fried in hog’s lard ; instead of calf’s udder, calf’s cou'l (net, omentum) may be used as a wrapper. According to some authors, the specialities of a kromesky are a little jacket of fat baconKronieskys, in which it is enveloped, and the batter in which it is dipped. The bacon should be previously cooked and cut into thin slices ; each slice may envelop, e.g., tsvo oysters, or a teaspoonful of any salpicon. The form is said by some to be Eussian, by others Polish ; the same uncertainty adumbrates either name. The CLASSIFICATION OF FRITURES 293 kromesky is thus seen to contain the same kind of salpicon as the bouchee or the croquette ; it differs from the latter not even in shape, but only by the material by which the shape is maintained. Bissoles are a kind of pastry made of minced and spiced ]neat or vegetables, or fruit, wrapped in a paste, and fried in lardBissoles. The paste may be the one used for nouilles or ravioli. Probably these preparations were originally made with whole rice, and this gave the name. From the word and thing rissole are derived the verb rissolcr, to give a nice red colour to baked and roasted meat, and the diminutive rissolettes, little portions of farce, served on little crusts of bread, called croutddes. There are recipes for many varieties of rissoles — some for every day, some for fast-days ; some are to be used as hors cVoeicvre for garnish. Besides the savoury ones, many forms contain vegetables only, such as spinach and mush- rooms, and fruit, such as apricot. The term rissolettes, or croiUades, is a modern French expression for the old Italian crustini, the little excavated pieces of fried bread, which are charged with some force- meat or tiny portions of fine ragout ; these savoury parts are not fried. Croutons are the most simple fritures, and are used with soups, ragouts, and entremets. They are always tasty, and far excel mere toasted bread, even as sippets, or suckers up of gravy or sauce. They should be crisp, but not hard, have a firm exterior and soft interior. Hard croutons, necessitating noisy crunching, are not aesthetical. 294 THE SPIRIT OF COOHERi CHAPTER XXII. FARCE, OR FORCEMEAT, FOR STUFFINGS ; QUENELLES AND GRATINS, GODIVEAUS. Farce is a French culinary expression, derived from the Latin farsum, for a mixture of minced or pounded meat, fat, bread, and spice, or, the bread being omitted, for sausage-meat only (farcimcn, sausage), or for farinaceous egg-bound preparations, to be used for stuffing birds to be boiled or roasted, or filling raised pies, or the hollows of hard-boiled eggs after removal of the yolks, or for serving as material for gratins. The English forcemeat is derived from the French viande farcee, but for forcemeat balls the^ French use the expression boulettcs de hachis. Forcemeat is prepared of different qualities, according to the applica- tion for which it is intended. Thus, for filling raised pies entirely or in part, it is not made of such select material, and not reduced to such fineness as for the production of quenelles, which require the greatest comminution ; on the other hand, stuffings and gratins permit of a greater ad- mixture of egg and panade than quenelles, and the more savoury the pie is to be, the more its contents