There is a fourth kind of jelly produced by culinary
operations, which, however, is not called so, but is termed
cream, or Bavarian cream, or Bavarian cheese, French
Bavaroise ; it consists of a gelatine jelly mixed with cream
as froth, or with a carbo-hydrate jelly and whipped cream,
and with white of eggs in the state of froth.
Isinglass was preferred by cooks because it yielded the
clearest jellies, although, like the other gelatines, it mostly
required purification (clarification). Of it 60 grm., or
nearly 2 oz., were required for an ordinary quart jelly,
which is more than double the quantity demanded above
in the case of jelly from gelatine or calf’s foot. During
cold seasons less gelatinizing substance is required. Of
rasped hartshorn, 1 lb. (or 500 grm.) was required to yield
by boiling with litres of water during six hours (!)
1 litre of jelly. Of fresh pig’s skin 1 lb. (or 500 grm.)
had to be boiled for eight hours to yield gelatine which
would set litres of jelly. Most cookery-books require
for an ordinary jelly of the volume of 1 litre 80 grm. dry
gelatine, 1 in 13-5, which we find much exceeding our
standard proportion of 1 oz. to the quart of liquid = 1 in 32 ;
or while the cookery-books require 8 per cent, of gelatine
in a jelly, we require a little more than 3 per cent. (3T2
per cent.), say 3| per cent, of gelatine of the best quality.
Making allowance for the exigencies of seasons and tastes,
we maintain that jellies must not be too firm, but fuse
easily in the warmth of the mouth ; over-firm jellies be-
come quickly repugnant, and are not rarely left on the
plate by persons of refined taste.
GELATINIZED OR CHAUDFROID SAUCES 263
Some cookery-books erroneously consider the gelatinizing
power of isinglass to be one quarter greater than that of
gelatine, or 60 grm. of isinglass to be equal to 80 grm. of
gelatine. Such gelatine must have been very inferior, and
mixed with glue which had lost its gelatinizing power by
excessive boiling. The hest gelatine is 200 per cent, better
than the best isinglass.
Gelatinized or Chaudfroid Sauces.
We first allude to some preparations which form a
transition from sauces to jellies, or combine some pro-
perties of both. What French cooks term a chmodfroid is
really a white or hrown jelly containing some sauce,
veloute, espagnole, or hechamel incorporated with it ; the
name thus indicates a mixture, and is as self-contradicting
as the ingredients are heterogeneous. When this sauce is
applied to fowl, partridge, or woodcock, the dish also is
called a chaudfroid of fowl, etc., being really fowl thinly
covered with jelly, or glaced with this composition. We
shall call chaudfroid a sauced jelly, or gelatinized sauce
(compound jelly) ; it is the counterpart of what some again
improperly call a hot aspic (aspic chaud). Thus, the proper
place for chaudfroids in our system is between sauces and
jellies, where we have accordingly placed them. The three
principal varieties of chaudfroid correspond to the three
principal sauces mentioned ; other sauces are evidently
not so suitable for this treatment.
Citronized Milk Jelly, or Jelly with Curdled Milk, ✪ Aspic
Page 170 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
There is a fourth kind of jelly produced by culinary operations, which, however, is not called so, but is termed cream, or Bavarian cream, or Bavarian cheese, French Bavaroise ; it consists of a gelatine jelly mixed with cream as froth, or with a carbo-hydrate jelly and whipped cream, and with white of eggs in the state of froth.
Isinglass was preferred by cooks because it yielded the clearest jellies, although, like the other gelatines, it mostly required purification (clarification). Of it 60 grm., or nearly 2 oz., were required for an ordinary quart jelly, which is more than double the quantity demanded above in the case of jelly from gelatine or calf’s foot. During cold seasons less gelatinizing substance is required. Of rasped hartshorn, 1 lb. (or 500 grm.) was required to yield by boiling with litres of water during six hours (!) 1 litre of jelly. Of fresh pig’s skin 1 lb. (or 500 grm.) had to be boiled for eight hours to yield gelatine which would set litres of jelly. Most cookery-books require for an ordinary jelly of the volume of 1 litre 80 grm. dry gelatine, 1 in 13-5, which we find much exceeding our standard proportion of 1 oz. to the quart of liquid = 1 in 32 ; or while the cookery-books require 8 per cent, of gelatine in a jelly, we require a little more than 3 per cent. (3T2 per cent.), say 3| per cent, of gelatine of the best quality. Making allowance for the exigencies of seasons and tastes, we maintain that jellies must not be too firm, but fuse easily in the warmth of the mouth ; over-firm jellies become quickly repugnant, and are not rarely left on the plate by persons of refined taste.
GELATINIZED OR CHAUDFROID SAUCES 263
Some cookery-books erroneously consider the gelatinizing power of isinglass to be one quarter greater than that of gelatine, or 60 grm. of isinglass to be equal to 80 grm. of gelatine. Such gelatine must have been very inferior, and mixed with glue which had lost its gelatinizing power by excessive boiling. The best gelatine is 200 per cent. better than the best isinglass.
Gelatinized or Chaudfroid Sauces.
We first allude to some preparations which form a transition from sauces to jellies, or combine some properties of both. What French cooks term a chaudfroid is really a white or brown jelly containing some sauce, veloute, espagnole, or hechamel incorporated with it ; the name thus indicates a mixture, and is as self-contradicting as the ingredients are heterogeneous. When this sauce is applied to fowl, partridge, or woodcock, the dish also is called a chaudfroid of fowl, etc., being really fowl thinly covered with jelly, or glaced with this composition. We shall call chaudfroid a sauced jelly, or gelatinized sauce (compound jelly) ; it is the counterpart of what some again improperly call a hot aspic (aspic chaud). Thus, the proper place for chaudfroids in our system is between sauces and jellies, where we have accordingly placed them. The three principal varieties of chaudfroid correspond to the three principal sauces mentioned ; other sauces are evidently not so suitable for this treatment.
Citronized Milk Jelly, or Jelly with Curdled Milk,
Records on this page
AspicCitronized Milk Jelly