* Theodor Turquet de Mayerne, of Geneva, 1573 to 1665, was Professor
of Chemistry and Physics at Paris, a Paracelsist ; the faculty had for-
bidden (about 1566) the use of antimony in medicine ; but he, disobeying,
was dismissed from his professorship and interdicted the practice of
medicine. He went to England and became physician to the Court. The
work ascribed to him is entitled ‘Archimagirus.’ Jeaffreson, ii. 60,
doubts his authorship, and believes that a bold impostor borrowed his
name. Graesse, vi. 664, reports the publication by Mayerne of ‘ Opera
Medica.’
t See ‘Phil. Trans.’ for 1675, vol. x., last quarter of p. 304. On ‘Re-
naissance Cookery,’ cf. Sir A. H. Layard’s essay in Murray's Magazine,
No. 51, March, 1891, p. 342.
X Bradley, Professor Richard, died 1732 (Graesse, vi. 662) ; wrote on
plants and gardening, during 1716 to 1731, and in these compilations he
referred much to cookery.
OBJECTS AND RESULTS OE COOKERY n
knowledge, even invented a method of preserving fish in
wine, in which preservation it could he boiled immediately ;
this led to the general adoption of the various liquids called
court-houillon, which for many lustra had to fill the office
of the true savoury broths in which fish is now boiled. In
later times the discussions mostly turned towards the
dietetics of food and nutrition, and thus became physio-
logical in a special sense, while the art of preparing food
was left to technical culinary writers. The art of adapting
cookery to the wants of sick and delicate persons was, we
believe, systematically treated for the first time by Walter
Eyff in 1569 ; either in consequence of this publication, or
as part of a general movement, it was treated in 1570 by
Scappi, the cook of Pope Paul V. , at considerable length ;
he gave two hundred receipts for cooking food for the sick
and convalescent, and informed his pupil, for whose
instruction he says that his book was written, that he
would fail in his duty were he not to do so. He con-
sequently describes how broths, soups, jellies, barley-water,
and such things should be made. He specially recommends
light soups made of oysters, snails, frogs, tortoises, and
turtles. In later periods this part of the culinary art was
discussed less and less by professional culinary writers, but'
treated mainly eclectically in appendices to other works,
even in our own time, mostly by members of the medical
profession.
AccLuirements necessary for Authorship.
A person who would write a philosophical and practical
treatise on cookery should in the first place have an ex-
tensive iwactical acquaintance with culinary jproccsses, with-
out being a professional cook in any sense ; this practical
acquaintance should be of that kind which in Prench
technical schools is imparted to young men who aspire to
become employers of technical labour, and not by any
12
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
Page 17
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
* Theodor Turquet de Mayerne, of Geneva, 1573 to 1665, was Professor of Chemistry and Physics at Paris, a Paracelsist ; the faculty had forbidden (about 1566) the use of antimony in medicine ; but he, disobeying, was dismissed from his professorship and interdicted the practice of medicine. He went to England and became physician to the Court. The work ascribed to him is entitled ‘Archimagirus.’ Jeaffreson, ii. 60, doubts his authorship, and believes that a bold impostor borrowed his name. Graesse, vi. 664, reports the publication by Mayerne of ‘ Opera Medica.’
t See ‘Phil. Trans.’ for 1675, vol. x., last quarter of p. 304. On ‘Renaissance Cookery,’ cf. Sir A. H. Layard’s essay in Murray's Magazine, No. 51, March, 1891, p. 342.
X Bradley, Professor Richard, died 1732 (Graesse, vi. 662) ; wrote on plants and gardening, during 1716 to 1731, and in these compilations he referred much to cookery.
knowledge, even invented a method of preserving fish in wine, in which preservation it could it could be boiled immediately ; this led to the general adoption of the various liquids called court-houillon, which for many lustra had to fill the office of the true savoury broths in which fish is now boiled. In later times the discussions mostly turned towards the dietetics of food and nutrition, and thus became physiological in a special sense, while the art of preparing food was left to technical culinary writers. The art of adapting cookery to the wants of sick and delicate persons was, we believe, systematically treated for the first time by Walter Eyff in 1569 ; either in consequence of this publication, or as part of a general movement, it was treated in 1570 by Scappi, the cook of Pope Paul V. , at considerable length ; he gave two hundred receipts for cooking food for the sick and convalescent, and informed his pupil, for whose instruction he says that his book was written, that he would fail in his duty were he not to do so. He consequently describes how broths, soups, jellies, barley-water, and such things should be made. He specially recommends light soups made of oysters, snails, frogs, tortoises, and turtles. In later periods this part of the culinary art was discussed less and less by professional culinary writers, but' treated mainly eclectically in appendices to other works, even in our own time, mostly by members of the medical profession.
AccLuirements necessary for Authorship.
A person who would write a philosophical and practical treatise on cookery should in the first place have an extensive iwactical acquaintance with culinary jproccsses, without being a professional cook in any sense ; this practical acquaintance should be of that kind which in Prench technical schools is imparted to young men who aspire to become employers of technical labour, and not by any