The spirit of cookery

The Meat Extract and Vegetable Glace. — Into a large stewpan with buttered bottom lay about a pound of lean ham cut into slices, and above that an equal quantity of veal or beef in slices, and over that two or three wild rabbits chopped in pieces. Pour on a sufficient quantity of normal broth to reach the upper surface of the meat ; add a carrot, an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half a dozen green onions, a blade of mace, and some cloves ; cover the pan, and let it boil briskly until the broth be nearly reduced to a glace ; then draw it on a moderately hot plate, and add about a pound of ready prepared glace or caramel of aspic described above. When the whole approaches the condition of glace, be careful not to let it be caught by the bottom fire, but stir and test it for its concentration. Test. — When the point of a table-knife, being immersed in it and withdrawn, retains a sufficient amount of the * We give some references to literary sources in support of the statements contained in the foregoing — Elementary Sauces, Koux, and Aspics : Salt-water, Eau de Sel, D.D., 100, ex Beauvilliers ; Poele, D.D., 1000; Mirepoix, Gouffe, 417 ; Braise, ibid., ex ‘ La Cuisinière de la Ville et de la Campagne’; Gouffe, 497 ; White Po61e is also called Blanc, D.D. 1000 ; Roux, E., 238 ; Gouffe, 87 ; D.D., 986-1000. Stock Sauces : D.D., 983 ; F., 2 ; voce Béchamel, ‘ Alinanach des Gourmands,’ vol. vii. Do. direct : D.D., 987 ; F., 92; voce Butter Sauce, F., 70 ; Sauce Blanche, Gouffe, 90 ; Sauce au Beurre, Gouffe, 436 ; voce Financibre ; Gouffe, 432, has three modifications for fowl, game, and fish, which differ by the ‘ fumets,’ but these are unnecessary and of little value ; Sauce piquante is to be coloured brown, by (sugar) caramel, Gouffb 96 ; voce Tomato Sauce, D.D., 992 ; Gouff4, 99 ; id., 432, sauce by adhesion to allow it to be rolled into a ball by turning the knife round its axis, and when this ball after cooling can be rolled between the fingers without adhering to them, then dilute the extract with standard broth to its original volume. Now filter the liquid through a tammy, cloth or stout calico filter into a large basin. The Brown Boux. — Have the brown roux ready in a large stewpan, pour the brown extract over it, and mix them by diligent stirring. Regulate the consistency of the resulting sauce by the cautious and gradual addition of normal broth, so that after boiling up and subsequent gentle simmering it may be ready to have the fat removed from its surface. Removal of the Fat. — When the butter with which the roux was made and other coarser particles have risen to the surface, either as a scum or in the form of a membrane, skim them off. By this operation the sauce assumes a perfectly smooth appearance, and will make a corresponding impression upon the tongue. Add a further pint of standard broth, and skim off crudities during about twenty minutes’ boiling, and then pass the sauce through a tammy or cloth into a white basin ; stir it until it be cold, and put it either into the water-bath for immediate, or into the larder for future, use.