Braises (or braizes), in French braisis, are understood nowadays to be the substance of meat or game which is roasted under certain special conditions, with the aid of materials specially prepared and mixed, which also bear the name of braises. A braisiere is a vessel of metal (braising-pan) in which this process is carried out ; it must be provided with a cover so close fitting that steam cannot escape under a little pressure, and the cover must have a raised rampart so as to be able to receive a quantity of braise, or live charcoal. In such a receptacle the meat to be roasted is, therefore, under conditions different from those which prevail on the grill or the spit. It is in an atmosphere of steam, and thereby prevented from drying or much concentrating its juices ; and it is at the same time subjected to radiating heat from above, which acts, though milder, like that coming from a fire. Braising thus yields a more succulent product, supposing the object of the pro- cess to be of limited succulency, and more sauce than the roasting process ; but the sauce, or its materials, must be added in a prepared state. A piece of meat to be braised may be placed with a mirepoix and basted with it, or it may be associated with a separate set of braising materials, which will not differ ip ROUX OR THICKENINGS 233 essence from the mirepoix. There are many recipes in cookery for the composition of the materials out of the harmonization of which these four sauces result ; hut the final products are very similar to each other. There is a poele or general braise, a lohite po&le for poioltry, a hlanc or white braise for calf's head and ears, or lamb's feet and ears, a braise h la Condd, very suitable for game stuffed with farce, and a mirepoix for braising larded fillets, e.g., of beef or roebuck. Roux or Thickening for Sauces, Soups, and Ragouts. We have already shown the meaning of the word ‘ roux ’ and of its tohite and broion modification, and that it consists essentially of dextrine, a product of the torrefaction, or over- heating, of starch. As flour is taken to produce a roux, and not starch, there are other matters produced, which give an agreeable flavour, while starch would not produce any flavour, but only tasteless dextrine. The temperature at which, in fat, flour is transformed into xohite roux has not been ascertained by a thermometer ; but the point when it is sufl&ciently done is indicated by its becoming more liquid than it was when first mixed. If the roux be made with butter, this should be melted and skimmed, or ghee may be taken at once ; add the flour while stirring, and continue heat and stirring until the mixture becomes somewhat softer ; then keep it hot in an oven for nearly an hour, to let all be thoroughly done, but without letting it take colour or get burnt. The broion roux, or dextrine caramelas, is the thickening for brown or espagnole sauces ; it is the roux properly so called, and is made exactly as the white variety just described, but it is left in the oven or frying-pan as much longer as may be necessary to cause it to assume a fawn or buff colour. When it is well coloured, throw half a .dozen shallots into it, to arrest the further action of the 234 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY heat and to impart an agreeable flavour. Then dilute with standard broth and use for its purpose.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Braises (or braizes), in French braisis, are understood nowadays to be the substance of meat or game which is roasted under certain special conditions, with the aid of materials specially prepared and mixed, which also bear the name of braises. A braisiere is a vessel of metal (braising-pan) in which this process is carried out ; it must be provided with a cover so close fitting that steam cannot escape under a little pressure, and the cover must have a raised rampart so as to be able to receive a quantity of braise, or live charcoal. In such a receptacle the meat to be roasted is, therefore, under conditions different from those which prevail on the grill or the spit. It is in an atmosphere of steam, and thereby prevented from drying or much concentrating its juices; and it is at the same time subjected to radiating heat from above, which acts, though milder, like that coming from a fire. Braising thus yields a more succulent product, supposing the object of the process to be of limited succulency, and more sauce than the roasting process ; but the sauce, or its materials, must be added in a prepared state. A piece of meat to be braised may be placed with a mirepoix and basted with it, or it may be associated with a separate set of braising materials, which will not differ in ROUX OR THICKENINGS essence from the mirepoix. There are many recipes in cookery for the composition of the materials out of the harmonization of which these four sauces result; but the final products are very similar to each other. There is a poele or general braise, a white poele for poultry, a blanc or white braise for calf's head and ears, or lamb's feet and ears, a braise h la Condd, very suitable for game stuffed with farce, and a mirepoix for braising larded fillets, e.g., of beef or roebuck. Roux or Thickening for Sauces, Soups, and Ragouts. We have already shown the meaning of the word 'roux' and of its white and brown modification, and that it consists essentially of dextrine, a product of the torrefaction, or overheating, of starch. As flour is taken to produce a roux, and not starch, there are other matters produced, which give an agreeable flavour, while starch would not produce any flavour, but only tasteless dextrine. The temperature at which, in fat, flour is transformed into white roux has not been ascertained by a thermometer ; but the point when it is sufficiently done is indicated by its becoming more liquid than it was when first mixed. If the roux be made with butter, this should be melted and skimmed, or ghee may be taken at once ; add the flour while stirring, and continue heat and stirring until the mixture becomes somewhat softer ; then keep it hot in an oven for nearly an hour, to let all be thoroughly done, but without letting it take colour or get burnt. The brown roux, or dextrine caramelas, is the thickening for brown or espagnole sauces ; it is the roux properly so called, and is made exactly as the white variety just described, but it is left in the oven or frying-pan as much longer as may be necessary to cause it to assume a fawn or buff colour. When it is well coloured, throw half a .dozen shallots into it, to arrest the further action of the heat and to impart an agreeable flavour. Then dilute with standard broth and use for its purpose.

The spirit of cookery