The addition of broth to roux must be done gradually, in small portions, with constant stirring in one direction, so that every portion of liquid added is cooled and absorbed before the next portion is added. If the broth were added to the roux suddenly, the two would not incorporate with each other, but remain separate, and the result would be the very contrary of the object of the operation, and quite irremediable. Egg-bindings also have to be added to the HISTORICAL SAUCES 229 liquids to be bound gradually, and while these liquids are at a moderate temperature, such as is unable to curdle yolk of egg in a diluted state. White or bland sauces should not he disturbed by bitter ingredients, such as nutmeg, lemon-peel, or similar sub- stances. Suited for them are mild flavours, such as mush- rooms, truffles, or other fine edihle fungi, crayfish or marine Crustacea, oysters, mussels, and the like. White sauces hear the addition of yolks, as shown by the allemande, Dutch sauce, and English hutter sauce. White sauces agree with some vegetables, e.g., asparagus, cauliflower, even potatoes ; but they are not suited to carrots, beet, sorrel, and purslane. Chervil, basilicum, and other herhs of strong taste, go better with brown sauces. The broion sauces are made with the real roux, pleonas- tically called brmun or red roux. They may he moistened with dark -coloured glaces or their diluted forms, and the aromatic herhs already mentioned may be amalgamated with them ; they bear bitter and strong spices, strong- tasting roots, fungi of all sorts, acids and vegetables pre- served therein, such as pickles. At the same time, these additions, and the flavouring with onions and their con- geners, must not he exaggerated, as it so often is hy, par- ticularly, Italian cooks, for this excess makes the sauces difficult of digestion. Wine should in general not be added to savoury sauces, but only to such special ones— e.p., egg-sauces — as are characterized thereby. A good egg-flip sauce with wine is a suitable addition to puddings and fritters of several kinds. Definitions of various Historical Sauces and Sauce-like Preparations. Historical French saiices are gence and cameline. The sauciers of Paris had constituted themselves into a corpora- tion long before the reign of Louis XI. They made sauces 230 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY which the people took home to flavour their ragouts. They were distinct from the merchants who sold cooked meat. Later on the sauciers were called vinaigriers, or moutar- cliers, and by a patent of Louis XII. their business was in 1614 raised to the rank of metier. In these statutes the sauces gence and cameline are mentioned ; the sellers were only to sell their own manufactures, and were to produce them as follows : Gence (to be eaten with roast meat), from almonds, wine, ginger, and verjuice ; cameline (to be eaten with fried fish), from cinnamon, cloves, paradise grains, bread, and vinegar. These sauces were said to have been invented by V illustrissime sieur de Taillevant, maitre queux des rois Charles V. et Charles VI. It is not impossible that cameline is a corruption from cannelline, from cannelle, cin- namon. Mustard, moiitarde, from mustum, m%cst, the powder of sinapis-seed, obtained its name from the employment of must in its preparation.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The addition of broth to roux must be done gradually, in small portions, with constant stirring in one direction, so that every portion of liquid added is cooled and absorbed before the next portion is added. If the broth were added to the roux suddenly, the two would not incorporate with each other, but remain separate, and the result would be the very contrary of the object of the operation, and quite irremediable. Egg-bindings also have to be added to the HISTORICAL SAUCES liquids to be bound gradually, and while these liquids are at a moderate temperature, such as is unable to curdle yolk of egg in a diluted state. White or bland sauces should not be disturbed by bitter ingredients, such as nutmeg, lemon-peel, or similar substances. Suited for them are mild flavours, such as mushrooms, truffles, or other fine edihle fungi, crayfish or marine Crustacea, oysters, mussels, and the like. White sauces hear the addition of yolks, as shown by the allemande, Dutch sauce, and English hutter sauce. White sauces agree with some vegetables, e.g., asparagus, cauliflower, even potatoes ; but they are not suited to carrots, beet, sorrel, and purslane. Chervil, basilicum, and other herhs of strong taste, go better with brown sauces. The brown sauces are made with the real roux, pleonastically called brown or red roux. They may be moistened with dark-coloured glaces or their diluted forms, and the aromatic herhs already mentioned may be amalgamated with them ; they bear bitter and strong spices, strongtasting roots, fungi of all sorts, acids and vegetables preserved therein, such as pickles. At the same time, these additions, and the flavouring with onions and their congeners, must not be exaggerated, as it so often is hy, particularly, Italian cooks, for this excess makes the sauces difficult of digestion. Wine should in general not be added to savoury sauces, but only to such special ones—e.g., egg-sauces — as are characterized thereby. A good egg-flip sauce with wine is a suitable addition to puddings and fritters of several kinds. Definitions of various Historical Sauces and Sauce-like Preparations. Historical French sauces are gence and cameline. The sauciers of Paris had constituted themselves into a corporation long before the reign of Louis XI. They made sauces which the people took home to flavour their ragouts. They were distinct from the merchants who sold cooked meat. Later on the sauciers were called vinaigriers, or moutarcliers, and by a patent of Louis XII. their business was in 1614 raised to the rank of metier. In these statutes the sauces gence and cameline are mentioned ; the sellers were only to sell their own manufactures, and were to produce them as follows : Gence (to be eaten with roast meat), from almonds, wine, ginger, and verjuice ; cameline (to be eaten with fried fish), from cinnamon, cloves, paradise grains, bread, and vinegar. These sauces were said to have been invented by l'illustrissime sieur de Taillevant, maitre queux des rois Charles V. et Charles VI. It is not impossible that cameline is a corruption from cannelline, from cannelle, cinnamon. Mustard, moutarde, from mustum, must, the powder of sinapis-seed, obtained its name from the employment of must in its preparation.

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