The spirit of cookery

The 6panada is a colossal raised pie, a loaf with meat baked in its inside. The dough to be used for it is fetched from the bread-baker’s, kneaded with lard, and formed into a round cake with a cavity in the centre ; into this the meat, previously fried and roasted, is placed, six to eight pigeons, a smaller number of pullets, or pork or veal ; this is covered with a flap of the same dough, and sent to be baked in the baker’s oven. When done it is carried to the place where the feast is to be. Fish, when placed in the epanada, is not previously fried or cooked. The Catalans have the longuet, a long thin roll, excavated and filled with forcemeat, and fried in oil or lard. They put into such forcemeat dried prunes, which also enter into the stuffing of fowls and turkeys, and into ragouts and fricandeaus. Sopa, or Spanish Soup h I’Ancienne, is a true soup in one sense, and ought never to be confounded with the olla or the puchero. It is by some made as nutritive as the 2^oU ri-m SPIRIT OF COOKERY au pot, aud this has perhaps given rise to the confusion of names. Polish BagoM or Soup (Barszcze). — This is an expanded ragout of many ingredients, coloured with fermented and fresh juice of red beetroot. There is no collateral consomme or broth added, but the compound depends for savour on such as its ingredients yield by five hours’ boiling. Some term the dish Borsch, an abbreviation of the word in the title, or Polish Soiqj, and place it amongst the national soups. It is doubtful whether this name is not connected with Pörsch, the East German name of Savoy cabbage, and of a ragout made therewith. The ingredients are various descriptions of meat and vegetables, much in the style of the olla ; then a red glace and a julienne, of which red beetroot is the prevailing ingredient, quenelles of fillet of beef, farcied eggs. When all are done separately, the meat is carved free from bone, and cut in dice, put into the souptureen, the quenelles and eggs are added, and the bouillon, carefully prepared and spiced, is put over all. The red beetroot juice is made by grating a number of beetroots, and fermenting the pulp with yeast in a protected vessel. Some add also directly expressed juice, as well as beetroot in substance, to the dish, which in consequence has a deepred colour.* Bussian Soup {Ouka). — This is a gravy soup of veal, fowl, etc., with souchets of salmon, eel, perch, and mullet, quenelles of whiting, lobster coral, aud mushroom purée. It has some analogy to bouillabaisse. Bussian Cabbage Soup [Tschi) is a broth soup, with onions, cabbage, aud quenelles. Pilau, or Pilaff, Turkish Pilaff, Zurdah Pilawo. — The pilau can be made with fowl or lamb, or fowl and lamb mixed, or capon, or turkey. Some Europeans in India put * Voce Borsch. Ilottenhofer, loc. cit., p. 70, has a Polish soup : Rosol, an ensouped ragoftt. Also, p. 72, a so-called Polish national soup, named Barszcze, which is a simplified recipe of the one above given.