Jack or Pike Soup, a soup sauce over fillets of jack ; some add puree of almonds and cream panada. * A series of recipes for fish soups is collected in D.D., 874 e( seq. (pike, eel, sole, flounder, sturgeon), mostly ex ‘ liecipes de la Maison de Madame,’ an old classic French work. FISH SOUPS AND SOUP SAUCES 191 Conger Eel Soiop* a meagre soup sauce over fillets of conger eel. Eel Soup of Sioeet-ioater Eel, also a potage maigre, being a ragout to be eaten with spoons ; when treated with beef broth it becomes gras. Compound Eel Soup, composed of soup sauce, sliced eel, fillets and tails of crayfish or prawns. Eel Soup as made at Hamhiirg. — The North of Germany, owing to its many lakes, is very rich in eels, which are there eaten in a great variety of forms of preparation — smoked, boiled, fried, in ragout, and particularly as soup. Bussian Fish Soicps.i — The Eussians have several fish soups : one termed kholodnoy, of which an ingredient is caviare; another called batvinia, which contains slices of salmon. These soups, for which a great variety of pre- scriptions exist amongst the Eussians, are mostly meagre or fieshless, and consist of a vegetable decoction with the usual bulbs, roots, tubers, rhizomes, and herbs, and of slices or fillets of fish, such as are available, boiled in salt- water, and added to the vegetable liquid. This decoction is also made in various more or less complicated forms. In one a pint of Sauterne wine is to be put, of which the Eussians consume large quantities, and may be supposed to like the flavour ; another addition is a liaison of yolks and a quantity of cream. Thus, these soups become ragoCit- like, heavy mixtures, calling for a good digestion. A favourite fish for producing the fillets is the smelt, and in its absence the trout. Haddock Soup is a composition to be made with haddock trimmings ; the soup is to be improved by the addition of cream, and to be made nutritious by the immersion of fried eggs, one for each person. The trimmings only, and not the fleshy parts, of two haddocks, are to be used for the * Conger eel soup rejoices in the name of potage ci la Bretonne. t For Russian fish soups, cf. Rottenhiifer, loc. cit., p. 7.5, N. 121. 192 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY soup. But when it is considered that 1 Ih. of fish is required to make a pint of eatable fish - hroth, these trimmings cannot he esteemed to he of sufficient value to justify the expenditure and trouble which their cooking would involve. Fillet of Sole Soup is a bouillon of sole trimmings and hones of any fish, such as skate, plaice, etc. ; the exhibition of all the cynicism manifested in the treatment of bones, as above described, is repeated in the treatment of the bones of fish ; most authors recognise the weakness of fish trim- mings as a material for the production of fish-broth by pre- scribing that they should be boiled in fish stock. Happily for the diners, the fillets of sole are to be fried, and to be immersed in the soup. It would be advisable to eat them by themselves, and to concentrate the soup to a mere sauce. Compound Fillet of Sole Soup, being a soup sauce with fillets of soles, is expanded with red quenelles and mussels. Compound Fillet of Flounder Soup is an elongated ragout, consisting of sotip sauce (velouU) with fillets of [Thames) fioxmders, quenelles of (Spey) trout, a binding of eggs and cream.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Jack or Pike Soup, a soup sauce over fillets of jack ; some add puree of almonds and cream panada. * A series of recipes for fish soups is collected in D.D., 874 e( seq. (pike, eel, sole, flounder, sturgeon), mostly ex ‘ liecipes de la Maison de Madame,’ an old classic French work. FISH SOUPS AND SOUP SAUCES Conger Eel Soiop* a meagre soup sauce over fillets of conger eel. Eel Soup of Sweet-water Eel, also a potage maigre, being a ragout to be eaten with spoons ; when treated with beef broth it becomes gras. Compound Eel Soup, composed of soup sauce, sliced eel, fillets and tails of crayfish or prawns. Eel Soup as made at Hamburg. — The North of Germany, owing to its many lakes, is very rich in eels, which are there eaten in a great variety of forms of preparation — smoked, boiled, fried, in ragout, and particularly as soup. Russian Fish Soups.i — The Russians have several fish soups : one termed kholodnoy, of which an ingredient is caviare; another called batvinia, which contains slices of salmon. These soups, for which a great variety of prescriptions exist amongst the Eussians, are mostly meagre or fieshless, and consist of a vegetable decoction with the usual bulbs, roots, tubers, rhizomes, and herbs, and of slices or fillets of fish, such as are available, boiled in saltwater, and added to the vegetable liquid. This decoction is also made in various more or less complicated forms. In one a pint of Sauterne wine is to be put, of which the Russians consume large quantities, and may be supposed to like the flavour ; another addition is a liaison of yolks and a quantity of cream. Thus, these soups become ragout-like, heavy mixtures, calling for a good digestion. A favourite fish for producing the fillets is the smelt, and in its absence the trout. Haddock Soup is a composition to be made with haddock trimmings ; the soup is to be improved by the addition of cream, and to be made nutritious by the immersion of fried eggs, one for each person. The trimmings only, and not the fleshy parts, of two haddocks, are to be used for the * Conger eel soup rejoices in the name of potage ci la Bretonne. t For Russian fish soups, cf. Rottenhaufer, loc. cit., p. 7.5, N. 121. soup. But when it is considered that 1 Ih. of fish is required to make a pint of eatable fish - hroth, these trimmings cannot he esteemed to he of sufficient value to justify the expenditure and trouble which their cooking would involve. Fillet of Sole Soup is a bouillon of sole trimmings and hones of any fish, such as skate, plaice, etc. ; the exhibition of all the cynicism manifested in the treatment of bones, as above described, is repeated in the treatment of the bones of fish ; most authors recognise the weakness of fish trimmings as a material for the production of fish-broth by prescribing that they should be boiled in fish stock. Happily for the diners, the fillets of sole are to be fried, and to be immersed in the soup. It would be advisable to eat them by themselves, and to concentrate the soup to a mere sauce. Compound Fillet of Sole Soup, being a soup sauce with fillets of soles, is expanded with red quenelles and mussels. Compound Fillet of Flounder Soup is an elongated ragout, consisting of sotip sauce (velouU) with fillets of [Thames] flounders, quenelles of (Spey) trout, a binding of eggs and cream.

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