Both Germans and Russians have a number of heer soups; the standard Russian one* is eaten cold; the highly-spiced beer soiop called tc la Berlinoise is well mulled with eggs, and eaten hot. The Germans also eat a cold dish, in summer time, made of beer, sour milk, and cream, grated bread, and cinnamon with sugar ; it is not called a soup. Somo meagre soups have been noticed above, and we shall meet others under the heading of Soups prepared loith Shell fish and Fish. In some popular treatises many soups in which a liaison of eggs is used are termed egg soups ; but this is an erroneous use of a collateral feature to supply a name for a product of no particular quality. Dietetic Broths and Decoctions for Patients and Invalids. A separate division for these preparations seems almost superfluous, as those which are most useful are all de- scribed under the heading relating to broths of all kinds. But in some respects they require, and in other respects admit of, a somewhat difi'erent treatment. The broths for invalids must frequently be kept free from vegetable extracts — e.g., of turnips or onions — as these are apt to molest delicate or young stomachs. Then, as patients and invalids are often living singly by themselves, and even when congregated in hospitals, etc., require refreshments at different times, the latter have to be prepared in small portions and at odd times. This necessitates as well as allows a more simple treatment of the materials. Chicken-broth — e.g., for children or women — may be made * Russian Gold Beer Soup. Of. D.D., 873, ex ‘La Cuisine Francaise,’ to the editor of which the recipe, as in use at St. Petersburg and Moscow, was sent by the author of the * Memoires of Madame de Orequy. ’ THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY 180 emollient by boiling with viarsli-mallow root and barley, and sweetened with Narhonne honey. Boil, skim, and filter. Mutton-broth, if made from minced mutton, should be flavoured with parsley, thyme, and salt only, when other vegetables are counter-indicated. Beef-tea and veal-broth may be made into gravy-broth by frying the beef and veal ; then vegetables are unnecessary. An addition of some Parma cheese will enhance the flavour. Veal and crayfish broth is liked even by greatly reduced persons in chronic wasting diseases. The imagination assists in the produc- tion of a liking. Chervil is a good pot-herb for flavour. The carcases of the crayfish can be treated as for bisque, and the tails, if they be few, should be rubbed into a puree and added to the soup. Decoctions of snails and frogs appear to us ridiculous, or even repulsive. But many nations and many strata of the populace use, eat, drink, and like them. They fulfil a demand of the imagination, namely, that sundry sufferings, even when small and temporary, will be relieved by preparations which are not part of .the daily dietary. In France the large horned garden or vineyard snails. Helix pomatia, are eaten by thousands as a delicate dish, just like stuffed fried oysters, and they are really very appetising. Frogs’ thighs are also eaten by many, and to the historical dish of Madame Volta we owe the discovery of Voltaic electricity.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Both Germans and Russians have a number of beer soups; the standard Russian one* is eaten cold; the highly-spiced beer soup called tc la Berlinoise is well mulled with eggs, and eaten hot. The Germans also eat a cold dish, in summer time, made of beer, sour milk, and cream, grated bread, and cinnamon with sugar ; it is not called a soup. Somo meagre soups have been noticed above, and we shall meet others under the heading of Soups prepared loith Shell fish and Fish. In some popular treatises many soups in which a liaison of eggs is used are termed egg soups ; but this is an erroneous use of a collateral feature to supply a name for a product of no particular quality. Dietetic Broths and Decoctions for Patients and Invalids. A separate division for these preparations seems almost superfluous, as those which are most useful are all described under the heading relating to broths of all kinds. But in some respects they require, and in other respects admit of, a somewhat difi'erent treatment. The broths for invalids must frequently be kept free from vegetable extracts — e.g., of turnips or onions — as these are apt to molest delicate or young stomachs. Then, as patients and invalids are often living singly by themselves, and even when congregated in hospitals, etc., require refreshments at different times, the latter have to be prepared in small portions and at odd times. This necessitates as well as allows a more simple treatment of the materials. Chicken-broth — e.g., for children or women — may be made * Russian Gold Beer Soup. Of. D.D., 873, ex ‘La Cuisine Francaise,’ to the editor of which the recipe, as in use at St. Petersburg and Moscow, was sent by the author of the * Memoires of Madame de Orequy. ’ emollient by boiling with marsh-mallow root and barley, and sweetened with Narbonne honey. Boil, skim, and filter. Mutton-broth, if made from minced mutton, should be flavoured with parsley, thyme, and salt only, when other vegetables are counter-indicated. Beef-tea and veal-broth may be made into gravy-broth by frying the beef and veal ; then vegetables are unnecessary. An addition of some Parma cheese will enhance the flavour. Veal and crayfish broth is liked even by greatly reduced persons in chronic wasting diseases. The imagination assists in the production of a liking. Chervil is a good pot-herb for flavour. The carcases of the crayfish can be treated as for bisque, and the tails, if they be few, should be rubbed into a puree and added to the soup. Decoctions of snails and frogs appear to us ridiculous, or even repulsive. But many nations and many strata of the populace use, eat, drink, and like them. They fulfil a demand of the imagination, namely, that sundry sufferings, even when small and temporary, will be relieved by preparations which are not part of .the daily dietary. In France the large horned garden or vineyard snails. Helix pomatia, are eaten by thousands as a delicate dish, just like stuffed fried oysters, and they are really very appetising. Frogs’ thighs are also eaten by many, and to the historical dish of Madame Volta we owe the discovery of Voltaic electricity.

The spirit of cookery