A good English equivalent for the name vfould be soups loith gravy-browned cntsts. Broth is transformed into gravy by being condensed, dried, and caramelized by beat while fixed on the breadcrusts, which here act as spongy mechanical media ; later on, after solution and softening, as distributors of the tasty gravy, and as nutriment. Some of these soups are very substantial. The crusts are obtained by excavating small rolls, specially baked for the dish, to obtain much crusty surface, yet the glassy surface of the crust has to be cautiously rasped off. When no special rolls are at hand, take slices or crusts of ordinary bread, for as the crusts hardly preserve their shape in the tureen, or in the serving, it is not of much consequence to the aspect of the dish. On the other hand, the crusts of small half-rolls, placed side by side with the open cups upwards, are con- venient for being basted or moistened with the bouillon, and * For some further uses of nouilles as well as macaroni, etc. , see ‘ En- tremets and Preparations of Eggs,’ infra. For a practical note on the soups, cf. Gouffe, loc. cit., p. 52. For Comp. Macar. and Semol. Soups, rf. F., 384 et seq. ; Cord. Bl., 25. For semolina=Fr. semoule, cf. D.l)., 1014. The best semolina is that of Genoa — white, made of rice-flour; yellow, of wheat-flour ; or deep yellow, coloured with saffron, coriander, and egg -yolk. GRATINATED CRUST SOUPS 171 serve as dishes for evaporation, while sucking in the con- centrated products of the process from the dish, which are then immediately caramelized or browned. Such gratinated crusts on a silver dish also look very pretty, i.e., culinarily attractive, as indicating fine taste, and are convenient to serve. If rolls be baked expressly, let them be made of the size and shape of hens’ eggs ; a dozen will be sufficient for a table with sixteen covers. The broth to be put over them must be thick, fat consomme. The last browning must be effected in the oven if the main process was carried out on a silver dish over charcoal or gas. The soup is put over the crusts only at the moment of serving, so that it has not time to entirely undo the crispness of the crusts. The soup may be any clear gravy or com- pound savoury soup, from jardiniere to onion soup. Seeing that the more simple soups are preferred, we agree with the French cooks, who immerse the gratinated crusts in a rich bouillon only. Of practical recipes we record the following :* Gratinated Crusts with Plain Broth — Potaqe CroMe au Pot. Soup d la Jardinihre luith Gratinated Crusts. Soup loith Gratinated Crusts and Quenelles of Chicken. Soup with Gratinated Crusts, Parmesan Cheese and Savotiry Custard. Soup with Gratinated Crusts and Fried Turnips. — To this soup some young green peas and a few white button onions, I all boiled tender by themselves, may be added. Soup with Gratinated Crusts and Pur&e of Carrots. I Soup ci la Bonne Femme loith Gratinated Crusts. 070 c/. D.D., 481 ; id. ih., 856 ; F., loc. cit., u u “y® excellent soups, provided the cook has mastered the theory and practice of gratination. Most cooks have no clear concep- tion of it, and some none at all. Beauvilliers* recipe (loc. cit., i. 16) is not quite intelligible ; it appears to me as if it contained two alternatives, fused into one recipe by an inattentive copyist. 172 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Soups made witli Potatoes, Cassava, Tapioca.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

A good English equivalent for the name would be soups with gravy-browned crusts. Broth is transformed into gravy by being condensed, dried, and caramelized by beat while fixed on the breadcrusts, which here act as spongy mechanical media ; later on, after solution and softening, as distributors of the tasty gravy, and as nutriment. Some of these soups are very substantial. The crusts are obtained by excavating small rolls, specially baked for the dish, to obtain much crusty surface, yet the glassy surface of the crust has to be cautiously rasped off. When no special rolls are at hand, take slices or crusts of ordinary bread, for as the crusts hardly preserve their shape in the tureen, or in the serving, it is not of much consequence to the aspect of the dish. On the other hand, the crusts of small half-rolls, placed side by side with the open cups upwards, are convenient for being basted or moistened with the bouillon, and * For some further uses of nouilles as well as macaroni, etc. , see ‘ Entremets and Preparations of Eggs,’ infra. For a practical note on the soups, cf. Gouffe, loc. cit., p. 52. For Comp. Macar. and Semol. Soups, rf. F., 384 et seq. ; Cord. Bl., 25. For semolina=Fr. semoule, cf. D.l)., 1014. The best semolina is that of Genoa — white, made of rice-flour; yellow, of wheat-flour ; or deep yellow, coloured with saffron, coriander, and egg -yolk. GRATINATED CRUST SOUPS serve as dishes for evaporation, while sucking in the concentrated products of the process from the dish, which are then immediately caramelized or browned. Such gratinated crusts on a silver dish also look very pretty, i.e., culinarily attractive, as indicating fine taste, and are convenient to serve. If rolls be baked expressly, let them be made of the size and shape of hens’ eggs ; a dozen will be sufficient for a table with sixteen covers. The broth to be put over them must be thick, fat consomme. The last browning must be effected in the oven if the main process was carried out on a silver dish over charcoal or gas. The soup is put over the crusts only at the moment of serving, so that it has not time to entirely undo the crispness of the crusts. The soup may be any clear gravy or compound savoury soup, from jardiniere to onion soup. Seeing that the more simple soups are preferred, we agree with the French cooks, who immerse the gratinated crusts in a rich bouillon only. Of practical recipes we record the following :* Gratinated Crusts with Plain Broth — Potage Croûte au Pot. Soup à la Jardinière with Gratinated Crusts. Soup with Gratinated Crusts and Quenelles of Chicken. Soup with Gratinated Crusts, Parmesan Cheese and Savotiry Custard. Soup with Gratinated Crusts and Fried Turnips. — To this soup some young green peas and a few white button onions, I all boiled tender by themselves, may be added. Soup with Gratinated Crusts and Purée of Carrots. I Soup à la Bonne Femme with Gratinated Crusts. 070 c/. D.D., 481 ; id. ih., 856 ; F., loc. cit., u u “y® excellent soups, provided the cook has mastered the theory and practice of gratination. Most cooks have no clear conception of it, and some none at all. Beauvilliers* recipe (loc. cit., i. 16) is not quite intelligible ; it appears to me as if it contained two alternatives, fused into one recipe by an inattentive copyist. Soups made witli Potatoes, Cassava, Tapioca.

The spirit of cookery