Sixth division: Soups characterized by molluscs (shell- fish), articulates, fishes, and reptiles. It includes some of the most celebrated recipes, such as that for bisque and turtle, and the fish soups of importance to certain religious denominations. Seventh division : Soups made with flesh purges and minces of fowl, game, rabbit, hare, etc. In this division are included some characteristic soups such as cock-a-leeky and rnulligatuuny. 152 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Eighth division : Soups representing expanded ragouts or immersed (ensouped) entries. Of this the bouillabaisse and ravioli soups are representative specimens. Ninth division; Soups made for the utilization of giblets, half-denuded skeletons (carcases), heads and tails. Of this division oxtail soup is the most prominent type. Tenth division; National soups and compound dishes. Of this division olla, puchero, and pilau are illustrations. CHAPTEE VIII. ILLUSTEATIONS OF THE EVOLUTIONAL TRANSITION OF GRUEL AND POT-AU-FEU TO CLEAR AND COMPOUND SOUPS OF EVERY KIND. Julienne Soup : its Definition, History, and Modifications. PoTAGE ii la julienne is a standard soup, and apparently very ancient. According to the recipes of Heliot,* a royal French cook, who lived about the middle of the eighteenth century, julienne soup was produced originally with the aid of the 2^ot-au-feu, containing a shoulder of mutton half roasted, some slices of beef and veal, a capon and four pigeons ; these were stewed during from five to six hours. There were also added six turnips, parsley and celery roots (parsliac and celeriac), leeks and onions, asparagus and sorrel. As the meat did not remain in the soup, it is not essential to it, but the recipe was sure to furnish a good broth. The oldest recipes resemljle those for the Spanish olla. The vegetables remain in the julienne. Mitonnage, i.e., the * Heliot, the earliest authority on julienne, is named ISlarc by T)unias, but J. by Carfime ; he was Ecuycr ordinaire de la liouche de Madame Jjauphinc de France about 17'17. D.U., 651 ; Careine, Malt. d’ll6t. , i. t53 JULIENNE AND JARDINIERE SOUPS addition of slices of bread to, and solution in, the soup, recommended by some recipes, is here omitted, as deteriorat- ing the quality of the product. Becipe for Julienne as now pi-epared. — Take equal quanti- ties or numbers of each — carrots, turnips, leeks, onions, and heads of celery (English leaf-stalk celery, not celeriac ; in case celeriac be available take half a root) ; cut them into thin slices an inch in length ; put them into a stewpan with 2 oz. of butter, some salt, and a teaspoonful of powdered, sugar. Braise the vegetables slowly until they begin to colour ; then pour over them from three pints to three quarts, according to the quantity of vegetables taken, of standard broth, or blond de veau, or mutton-broth, or good mixed stock ; let the soup boil, skim off the fat, add the white leaves of two cabbage lettuces, some sorrel, tarragon, and chervil, and boil the whole for ten minutes more. You may avoid the frying and subsequent removal of the fat, although at the cost of some gravy flavour, by boiling the vegetables, including some white or savoy cabbage, or Brussels-sprouts, directly with the desirable quantity of standard broth for one hour, or until they be perfectly tender. Some cooks {e.g., Beauv., i. 20) add an elaborate treatment of the sorrel by parboiling and braising it.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Sixth division: Soups characterized by molluscs (shellfish), articulates, fishes, and reptiles. It includes some of the most celebrated recipes, such as that for bisque and turtle, and the fish soups of importance to certain religious denominations. Seventh division : Soups made with flesh purges and minces of fowl, game, rabbit, hare, etc. In this division are included some characteristic soups such as cock-a-leeky and mulligatawny. Eighth division : Soups representing expanded ragouts or immersed (ensouped) entries. Of this the bouillabaisse and ravioli soups are representative specimens. Ninth division; Soups made for the utilization of giblets, half-denuded skeletons (carcases), heads and tails. Of this division oxtail soup is the most prominent type. Tenth division; National soups and compound dishes. Of this division olla, puchero, and pilau are illustrations. CHAPTER VIII. ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE EVOLUTIONAL TRANSITION OF GRUEL AND POT-AU-FEU TO CLEAR AND COMPOUND SOUPS OF EVERY KIND. Julienne Soup : its Definition, History, and Modifications. PoTAGE ii la julienne is a standard soup, and apparently very ancient. According to the recipes of Heliot,* a royal French cook, who lived about the middle of the eighteenth century, julienne soup was produced originally with the aid of the 2^ot-au-feu, containing a shoulder of mutton half roasted, some slices of beef and veal, a capon and four pigeons ; these were stewed during from five to six hours. There were also added six turnips, parsley and celery roots (parsliac and celeriac), leeks and onions, asparagus and sorrel. As the meat did not remain in the soup, it is not essential to it, but the recipe was sure to furnish a good broth. The oldest recipes resemble those for the Spanish olla. The vegetables remain in the julienne. Mitonnage, i.e., the * Heliot, the earliest authority on julienne, is named ISlarc by T)unias, but J. by Carfime ; he was Ecuycr ordinaire de la liouche de Madame Jjauphinc de France about 17'17. D.U., 651 ; Careine, Malt. d’ll6t. , i. t53 JULIENNE AND JARDINIERE SOUPS addition of slices of bread to, and solution in, the soup, recommended by some recipes, is here omitted, as deteriorating the quality of the product. Recipe for Julienne as now prepared. — Take equal quantities or numbers of each — carrots, turnips, leeks, onions, and heads of celery (English leaf-stalk celery, not celeriac ; in case celeriac be available take half a root) ; cut them into thin slices an inch in length ; put them into a stewpan with 2 oz. of butter, some salt, and a teaspoonful of powdered, sugar. Braise the vegetables slowly until they begin to colour ; then pour over them from three pints to three quarts, according to the quantity of vegetables taken, of standard broth, or blond de veau, or mutton-broth, or good mixed stock ; let the soup boil, skim off the fat, add the white leaves of two cabbage lettuces, some sorrel, tarragon, and chervil, and boil the whole for ten minutes more. You may avoid the frying and subsequent removal of the fat, although at the cost of some gravy flavour, by boiling the vegetables, including some white or savoy cabbage, or Brussels-sprouts, directly with the desirable quantity of standard broth for one hour, or until they be perfectly tender. Some cooks {e.g., Beauv., i. 20) add an elaborate treatment of the sorrel by parboiling and braising it.

The spirit of cookery