The flesh of fowls yields an extract which in gustatory j finesse is superior even to that of mutton ; by roasting its flavour is naturally enhanced, and the extract becomes gravy-broth. Eoast the required number of fowls before a brisk fire, until they are half done ; then put them # It should therefore be written hotchpot; when ending with polch, thta is derived from the English to potch, to boil tender ; of this the French equivalent is pocher, now restricted to signifying the parboiling of eggs,1 to poach, I APPLICATION OF BROTHS FOR SOUPS 147 into a stock-pot, fill up with water or broth, and heat to boiling; skim, add carrot, turnip, onion, celery, cloves, mace, and salt✪ Gravy-Broth of Fowls. Boil the mixture for two hours, and then strain it off for use. When colourless broth of fowls is required, as for Beauvilliers’ potage d la Beine* the roasting has to be omitted or to be done eii papillote. White Broth of Fowls, Chicken-Broth. Take two or more old hens or fowls, or their carcases, after the fillets are abstracted for other purposes ; skin them, cut them in pieces, and put them in a stock-pot, either with water, and 1 oz. of four-seeds (equal parts of aniseed, caraway, cumin, and fennel) in a bag, or standard beef-broth ; if you omit the four-seeds put in celery, onions, turnips, carrots, and leeks✪ White Broth of Fowls : boil for two hours ; if you have old hens to deal with, boil them for three hours. Skim, pass through a napkin, and use. This broth, erroneously called consomme by some writers, properly called bouillon by Beau- villiers, is very useful for imparting a delicate flavour to clear soups. When purity of chicken flavour is not required, the fowls or their carcases may be boiled in standard broth instead of water. This leaves any meat of the fowls fit for further use. Some Conclusions from the Foregoing Recipes. It will thus be seen that the principles for the production of broth (bouillon), gravy-broth (consomm4), or gravy (jus), are the same for beef, mutton, veal, or fowl. They are con- sequently the same for all other kinds of meat, including venison and game. Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, larks, quails, woodcocks, snipes, all may be treated accord- ing to the principles indicated, and furnish an extract of high gustatory value. But in the case Of the smaller animals, from the fowl downwards, it must never be for- gotten that it is their meat alone which furnishes anything savoury, and that the mere extraction of cai'cases after * Loc, oil., i., p. 28. THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY 14S removal of all or most of the meat useful for cooking can furnish but little useful broth. Further, all such kinds of true broth are very expensive, seeing that the edible part of a fowl or chicken costs on an average 2s. to 2s. 6d. the pound, all bones and offal deducted. And as all cooks are constantly constrained by the remonstrances of their masters against high expenditure to produce tasty things at the least cost, the expensive and refined broths do not often have an opportunity to come up to our standard. Seeing how good and cheap are the extracts of the flesh of kine and sheep, the absence of rarer fumets is no great depriva- tion to society at large, and the most savoury dishes remain open to the likings of the proprietors of the most economical kitchens at a reasonable expenditure of money and skill. Application of Broths for the Production of Soup.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The flesh of fowls yields an extract which in gustatory j finesse is superior even to that of mutton ; by roasting its flavour is naturally enhanced, and the extract becomes gravy-broth. Eoast the required number of fowls before a brisk fire, until they are half done ; then put them [illustration: Note on hotchpot etymology] APPLICATION OF BROTHS FOR SOUPS into a stock-pot, fill up with water or broth, and heat to boiling; skim, add carrot, turnip, onion, celery, cloves, mace, and salt. Boil the mixture for two hours, and then strain it off for use. When colourless broth of fowls is required, as for Beauvilliers’ potage d la Beine* the roasting has to be omitted or to be done eii papillote. White Broth of Fowls, Chicken-Broth. Take two or more old hens or fowls, or their carcases, after the fillets are abstracted for other purposes ; skin them, cut them in pieces, and put them in a stock-pot, either with water, and 1 oz. of four-seeds (equal parts of aniseed, caraway, cumin, and fennel) in a bag, or standard beef-broth ; if you omit the four-seeds put in celery, onions, turnips, carrots, and leeks : boil for two hours ; if you have old hens to deal with, boil them for three hours. Skim, pass through a napkin, and use. This broth, erroneously called consomme by some writers, properly called bouillon by Beauvilliers, is very useful for imparting a delicate flavour to clear soups. When purity of chicken flavour is not required, the fowls or their carcases may be boiled in standard broth instead of water. This leaves any meat of the fowls fit for further use. Some Conclusions from the Foregoing Recipes. It will thus be seen that the principles for the production of broth (bouillon), gravy-broth (consomm4), or gravy (jus), are the same for beef, mutton, veal, or fowl. They are consequently the same for all other kinds of meat, including venison and game. Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, larks, quails, woodcocks, snipes, all may be treated according to the principles indicated, and furnish an extract of high gustatory value. But in the case Of the smaller animals, from the fowl downwards, it must never be forgotten that it is their meat alone which furnishes anything savoury, and that the mere extraction of carcases after * Loc, oil., i., p. 28. 14S removal of all or most of the meat useful for cooking can furnish but little useful broth. Further, all such kinds of true broth are very expensive, seeing that the edible part of a fowl or chicken costs on an average 2s. to 2s. 6d. the pound, all bones and offal deducted. And as all cooks are constantly constrained by the remonstrances of their masters against high expenditure to produce tasty things at the least cost, the expensive and refined broths do not often have an opportunity to come up to our standard. Seeing how good and cheap are the extracts of the flesh of kine and sheep, the absence of rarer fumets is no great deprivation to society at large, and the most savoury dishes remain open to the likings of the proprietors of the most economical kitchens at a reasonable expenditure of money and skill. Application of Broths for the Production of Soup.

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