The spirit of cookery

and half an ounce of its extract substituted, and the solution be boiled with the pounded half-fowl and the green condiments, an equally good broth will be obtained. Veal Gravy-Broth, or Blond de Veau in Literature. Voltaire wrote from Cirey to his friend St. Lambert : ‘ Come to Cirey, where Madame Duchatelet will prevent your being poisoned; there is not even a spoonful oijus in the kitchen, all is done here with blond de veau ; we are going to live a hundred years.’* The recipe for this blond de veau had been given to Madame Duchatelet by the celebrated I Tronchin, whose hygienic principles were comprised in these three recommendations : ‘ Keep your head cool, your feet warm, and your bowels open.’ Compare with this the old Enghsh veal-broth recommended by Ignotus, quoted below. But first let us consider the classic recipe. Blond de Veau a la Duchatelet, by Tronchin. Put into a casserole butter or lard, slices of veal, and pieces of fowl, and fry the mixture; add onions, carrots, a bouquet of herbs, and a pint of bouillon (!) ; let the liquid boil down to a glace without allowing it to catch {i.e,, adhere, by burning, to the bottom of the casserole) ; then fill up again with bouillon (!), boil and skim, and let I simmer for two hours. . Make a white roux, and fry some V mushrooms (champignons) in it for some minutes; then 1 add the broth and bind it intimately ; boil and skim, keep ( on a mild fire to collect the grease, and pass through a ^ tammy. Considering that this blond de veau, for which no p quantities of either veal or fowl are given, is to be filled f' up twice with ‘a pint of bouillon,’ the statement of * Of. D.D., 2.50. Voltaire, that it was made without jus, is to some extent erroneous. Veal Gravy-Broth, or Blond de Veau. Butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in some slices of ham, 4 lb. or 5 lb. of veal, well minced, a couple of wild rabbits, two carrots and onions, and let all sweat over a mild fire ; add a pint of standard broth, and reduce byboiling to the state of glace ; when it has a nice yellow colour remove it from the fire ; moisten again with standard broth (grand bouillon) ; now add parsley, shallots (half a clove of garlic), two cloves ■, boil, skim, remove grease, pass through a tammy, and use the blond as you would empotage for rice, vermicelli, and sauces, such as Espagnole, and even for excellent soup. French magiric authors do not prescribe mincing the veal, but order the cook to prick the slices, after the glace is obtained, to let out all the juice which they contain ■,* this very imperfect mode of extracting the veal we have superseded by mincing and pressing it. t Veal-Broth, Plain and Meagre, with Rice or Vermicelli. Stew a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of water, to which put 2 oz. of rice or vermicelli, a little salt, and a blade of mace. When the meat has become thoroughly boiled, and the liquid reduced to about one half, it may be sent to table, with or without the meat. Ignotus,t the magiric physician, recommends this simple broth to be used by all persons who are in the habit of indulging in rich soups (a danger not nowadays often to be apprehended) and highly-spiced dishes, to give their digestive organs an occasional relaxation. -* Cf. Beaiivillierp, Joe. cU., i. 15. + ‘Gul. Fain. Med.,’ Joe, cit., p. 21Z. MUTTON-BROTHS J45 Mutton-Broth.